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TRAVELS 

IN THE YEAR 1806, 
FROM 

ITALY TO ENGLAND, 

THROUGH THE 

'tYROL, STYRIA, BOHEMIA, GALLICIA, 
POLAND, AND LIVONIA, 

Containing the Particulars of the Liberation of 

MRS, SPENCER SMITH, 

From the hands of the French Police, and of her subsequent 
Flight through the Countries above-mentioned : 

EFFECTED AND WRITTEN 

BY THE MARQUIS DE SALVO, 

MEMBER OF THE ACADEMY OF SCIENCES AND LITERA- 
TURE OF TURIN, tec. 

Quod honestefacturum se putaverit faciet, etiamsit laboriosum, 
, etiamsit periculosum faciei. 

-~ -. : CiC. DE VlRTUTE. 



TROY, N. Y. 

TUBLISHED BY WRIGHT, GOODENOW, AND STOCKWELL, AT 

THE RENSSELAER BOOK-STORE FOR THEMSELVES J FOR 

GOODENOW AND CO. BOSTON J AND FOR THOMAS AKB 
TAPPAN, PORTSMOUTH, N. H. 

1808. 



E. & E. Hosford, Printers, Albany. 



TO HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS 

• THE DUKE OF SUSSEX. 

SIR, 

UPON' actions like those detailed in 
the following pages occurring^ which evince 
the generous intervention of a man sensible 
to the tears of real distress ; when narra- 
tives of hardships alleviated^ or innocence 
defended^ are translated ; I am conscious of 
the propriety of dedicating the same to 
your Royal Highness : as well from that 
noble benevolence of hearty which is your 
peculiar char act eristick, as from your Royal 
Highness'' thorough knowledge of the Eu-^ 
fopean languages. 



DEDICATIOJT, 

From this persuasion alone could I have, 
aspired to the high honour of dedicating 
this translation (from the original manu" 
script in Italian)^ to your Royal High^ 
ness, 

I have the honour to be^ with the most 
profound respect and consideration^ 

Sir, 
Your Royal Highness^ 
Most devoted, 

And most obedient 
Humble servant, 
TV. FRASEB. 

tohdbii, May, 1807. 



PREFACE. 



IT had ever been my crustom to 
write down the observations made by me 

upon the countries through which I had 
passed in the course of my travels ; but 
with no other view than to recollect those 
circumstances likely to escape my memo- 
ry, when I might occasionally have wish- 
ed to retrace each eventful day during my 
journey through Italy, parts of France, and 
a great portion of Germany, 

Thus, as my sole purposes were my ^ 
own amusement and information, and my 
memoranda were made only in character 
of a young traveller, I could by no means 
have thought myself bound to render these 
publick, or consider them as of sufficient 

A 2 



VI preface:. 

importance to deserve that distinction; 
for I esteemed myself neither capable of 
adequately panegyrising the objects which 
I had admired ; nor so destitute of ability 
as to follow the steps of a German novel- 
writer, who hurries through countries with 
no other object than that of collecting mat- 
ter for his satirical compositions, which, 
to speak of them in the most favourable 
point of view, embracing subjects with 
which he appears to be unacquainted, are 
frequently destitute of interest, and not al- 
ways in strict unison with the truth. I 
kept a journal of the occurrences that be- 
fel me, in order to furnish me with the 
history of myself during any particular 
^^ period, and took especial care that my 
name should never be suffered to appear 
in the publick prints,. 

A singular event, however, in which I 
had acted a conspicuous part^ could not> 



PREFACE. VH 

pass unobserved by the writers of the daily 
newspapers. At an epoch when every cir- 
cumstance relating to any of the belliger- 
ent nations occupied the attention of so- 
ciety ; when political combustion and mu- 
tual animosity raged not only among na- 
tions, but between individuals (who nat- 
urally interest themselves in every meas- 
ure, and every occurrence, of their re- 
spective countries) ; and when every such 
event became a subject of common con- 
versation : — At a crisis too when Europe 
had become the field of slaughter, of re- 
venge, and of oppression ; while nothing 
was spoken of but killed and prisoners : — 
the deliverance of a lady of distinction 
from the bondage of the French, and the 
dangers inseparable from such an action, 
were not likely to pass unnoticed ; consid- 
ering besides, the subsequent detention to 
which she had been subjected, her labo- 
rious journey through Germany^ Poland, 



Vm PREFACE. 

and Livonia, and voyage across the Baltick, 
on her way to England, where alone she 
was able to find peace and personal se- 
curity. 

The Gazettes of Prague and Hamburgh 
soon announced that a young Sicilian had 
planned and effected the release of Mrs. 
Spencer Smith, on which I was obliged to 
satisfy the curiosity of the persons who 
wished to hear the narrative of that event ; 
but I began to grow tired of so frequently 
repeating it during the space of two months 
that I staid in Poland and Livonia, and 
wished that it were forgotten. On my ar- 
rival in England, however, it was impos- 
sible that I should object to a similar com- 
pliance with the inquiries of those who 
so warmly interested themselves in the 
fate of a lady who had been a French pris- 
oner. Still 1 did not intend to render pub- 
lick this account of my late travels, aa 



PREFACE. 12i. 

I rather preferred reading of the actions 
of others than writmg of myself; espe» 
cially at a time when the fortune of war 
so eminently concerns every class of soci- 
ety ; and when the peace and liberty of 
Europe occupy the thoughts of English- 
men with such unremitting attention, that 
they not only pant for tidings from the 
field of battle, but dream of victories and 
prognosticate defeats. At a season when 
London, this great city, affords the stran- 
ger so many objects of admiration, where 
he sees arise from a perpetual conflict of 
opinions and party animosity, the vigour, 
security, and prosperity of a wise and in- 
dustrious nation, I could not bring myself 
to the resolution of writing upon what had 
occurred to me, as it would only interest 
the transient curiosity of the moment ; par- 
ticularly from a conviction that such an 
undertaking would impede studies to me 
by far more interesting, in the acquisition 



t,:' PREFACE. 

of information conducive to tlie develope-* 
jnent of my mind. But my friends, from 
the time of my first arrival, expressed 
their desire to read the journal of my res- 
idence in Venice, departure from Bres- 
cia, detention and imprisonment in Ger- 
many, and journey in Styria and Bohe* 
mia, with the incidents attending our es- 
cape from Italy, and journey to England. 

Being apprehensive that those w^ritten 
sheets might one day reach the hands of 
some periodical writer or novelist, and be 
gilded with the tinsel of romance, in ad- 
dition to a misrepresentation of the truth, 
and fearful of becoming the hero of a fic- 
titious history, I have preferred publishing 
them myself for the satisfaction of my 
friends. They begin with January 1806, 
and include October of the same year ; 
containing a faithful narrative of Mrs. 
Smith's deliverance. I have scrupulously 



PREFACE. XI 

adhered to the truth, avoiding all imita- 
tion of romance, which is often replete 
with incongruous images, and reflections 
inconsistent with either veracity or reason, 
and seldom written with any other view 
than merely to counteract the ennui of in- 
dolence. The detail is simple, being em- 
bellished by no elaborate efforts of elo- 
quence, a quality unnecessary when a strict 
adherence to truth is wished to be main- 
tained ; and in order that the reader may 
be acquainted with my situation previous 
to the time when I undertook the libe- 
ration of the lady, I shall first take the 
liberty of giving a hasty sketch of my 
travels. 



INTRODUCTION. 



FROM my earliest youth I had har- 
boured a strong inclination to quit my na- 
tive country. How often did I gaze with 
a longing eye on the opposite continent, 
anxious to observe the manners and see 
the curiosities there ! and at a later period 
I wished to become acquainted with those 
laws and constitutions that influence so 
essentially the peculiar characters of dif- 
ferent nations. 

I availed myself of the peace that caus- 
jerd the disasters of Europe to subside for 
a time, and resolved on undertaking, about 
the close of 1803, the journey which had 
constantly been the object of my thoughts. 
Italy oiFered me an immensity of attrac- 
tions : a v/ide field for the curiosity of an 
inquisitive traveller. This unhappy coun» 

B 



XIV INTRODUCTIO]^. 

try exhibited throughout a state of debili- 
ty, to which it had been reduced by so 
many political vicissitudes. Its incom- 
parable soil and position had ever allured 
the ambitious. A few provinces were 
now beginning to revive, and recover their 
former splendour ; others were unable ei- 
ther to support or defend themselves ; and 
in general there was none so secure as not 
to have reason to fear, or so powerful as 
to attempt emancipation from those suf- 
ferings, which it endured. 

Naples alone was in a flourishing con- 
dition. I found it in such a state of com- 
fort and tranquillity, that I could hardly 
perceive any trace of the recent calamities 
that it had endured. The people, how- 
ever, still deplored the blood that had 
been shed during the fatal epoch of anar- 
chy, but manifested their joy on the re- 
turn of their sovereign and of order. Ev- 
ery subject had resumed his regular avo- 
cations. I admired the activity of its in- 
ternal trade, which fully evinced the vast 
resources of that prolilick and rich coun- 



INTRODUCTION. 'XV 

try ; it appeared to abound with whatever 
convenience or luxury could demand. 
The civil code of this kingdom, though 
blamed for its great variety of laws, is 
nevertheless adapted to the feudal system 
of a country that has often clianged its 
monarchs. The position of its metropo^ 
lis, almost at the extremity of the king- 
dom, and the circumstance of several prin- 
ces who are proprietors of land, inhabit- 
ing the capital throughout the year, are 
perhaps the causes why there does not ex- 
ist a more extensive degree of commerce 
and agriculture in Calabria and other prov- 
inces. The monuments of antiquity not 
only recal to the memory the Ceesars, the 
Sybils, and the philosophers of Rome ; 
but exhibit the ancient splendour of Mag- 
na Greece, vestiges of which are perceiv* 
ed about Naples, and render that country 
extremely interesting to the traveller 
whose mind is above prying into the do- 
mestick concerns of families, recording 
amours, assisting at ladies' toilets, scru- 
tinizing the conduct of priests and friars, 
lecturing upon tlie fare at taverns, &.c. as 



Xvi II^TRODUCTION. 

M. Kotzebue has done in his Travels hi 

Italy. 

Rome appeared to me a vast museum of 
the fine arts. Marble monuments at ev- 
ery step, stupendous edifices, splendid 
churches, the picturesque ruins of ancient 
temples and palaces, columns, obelisks, and 
pyramids, statues, pictures, engravings, 
jnosaicks, and bas-reliefs^ meet the sight in 
all parts. But I could perceive neither 
activity nor energy in that city ; all was- 
languid and supine. I was not at ail sur- 
prised, however, at finding the seat of the 
head of the Catholick religion in such tran- 
quillity ; for I thought this more appropri- 
ate than what must have been its condition 
formerly, v/hen Christian Rome was the 
political arbiter of the interests cf king- 
doms, deciding in all cases on war and 
peace, and when it was the scene of the 
intrigues of every court. The apathy not- 
withstanding of the people is evident in 
other cities of the Roman state ; rich and 
extensive lands are left Vvdthout cultiva- 
tion, immense tracts are s(:en throu ghoul; 



INTRODUCTION* XVll 

the country naked and barren, from neg- 
lect alone. The Romans attribute such 
sterility to the pernicious influence of the 
atmosphere, which is certainly very un-^ 
healthy ; but what they imagine to be the 
cause is no more tlian the effect. 

The monuments of antiquity, and the 
remnants of the objects of art, that have, 
escaped the avidity of invaders, render 
Rome still a great field for the develope- 
ment of «:enius ; and the celebrated trav- 
eller of Siberia ought really to be asham- 
ed of his countrymen, at seeing them 
come to learn the principles of art from 
the Italians, who, according to him, ex- 
cel in nothing but tlwir ^oice, 

Rome, that once used to behold mon- 
archs prostrate before her sacred chief, 
receiving their sceptres from his hands, 
when I was there witnessed the departure 
of the Pope for Paris. Some were appre- 
hensive that he was never to return ; but 
the Roman people were no longer capable 
df mailing any opposition to whatever me- 

B 2 



:xviu i^rrnoDUCTioivr. 

iiace might have been held out to them, 
and only rehed on the enemy's respect 
towards their religion. 

* 

The report that the yellow fever raged 
at Leghorn, induced me to leave Florence, 
and I passed through Bologna without 
staying there more than a few days. This 
city, I perceived with pleasure still re- 
tains its taste for learning, notwithstand- 
ing its subjection to a military system of 
government, from forming a part of the 
Cisalpine republick. The Bolognese are 
better astronomers and aeronauts than pol- 
iticians, as they were the only people of 
Italy that had not foreseen the dissolution 
of that Republican system by which so ma- 
ny countries had been duped. 

Parma and Placentia appeared to me 
merely two unattached cities. Genoa had 
not been able yet to repair the dreadful ef- 
fects of those intestine broils, bankrupt- 
cies, and civil wars, which it had suffered 
during the first disasters of Italy. After 
being stripped of its property by thq. con-» 



INTRODUCTION. XIX' 

f 

querours on the one side, it was driven to 
the last stage of wretchedness by a close 
siege on the other, for two years, by whicii 
means their only resource of commerce 
was completely annihilated. The princi- 
pal families had emigrated, and Genoa re- 
tamed no further proofs of its former af- 
fluence, than the empty name of republick. 
Twelve thousand French were constantly 
garrisoned at Alessandria ; two Cisalpine 
regiments occupied the environs of Ge- 
noa, and Salicetti indirectly controuied all 
the operations of the government. Sev- 
eral of the inhabitants flattered themselves 
that the names of Durazzo, Cambiaso, 
Brignoli, and Spinola, would again be 
numbered among their doges ; but in gen- 
eral they apprehended that they were to 
share the fate of Piedmont. 

The conscription to which the Milanese 
people had been subjected, occasioned a 
certain degree of agitation in Milan. The 
Lombards, formerly engaged in agricul- 
ture, were become soldiers. That city^ 
however, appeared to be in a flourishing 



SX INTRODUCTION. 

condition, whence many persons inferred 
that all Lombardy had gained advantages 
by the recent changes ; but on a closer in- 
spection this prosperity was found to arise 
merely from che activity of the persons 
employed under the new system ; while 
in fact, industry was neglected, the man- 
ufactures and other objects of luxury were 
imported from France, and the proprie- 
tors dissipated their incomes at Paris. 
Contributions were imposed to such an 
extent, that the inhabitants complained of 
their being reduced to subsist on half their 
incomes ; all the rest of Italy was greatly 
paralysed ; the principal families in Milan 
endured the weight of these burthens, and 
contemplated with the deepest regret those 
comforts which they had formerly enjoyed 
under the Austrian government. The 
activity which I perceived appeared to me 
constrained, it being contrary to the hab- 
its and character of the Lombards. I re- 
marked besides, that the Italian soldiers 
did not like to be under the controul of 
the French ; but the Italians were only 
rousing from the lethargick state to which 



INTRODUCTION. XXI 

a long series of peaceable years had redu- 
ced them ; and although unenlightened as 
}'et, they felt a rising disposition to imi- 
tate their masters. 

In all tliese parts of Italy the traveller 
who is not of the cast of the celebrated 
Kotzebue, (a writer that contemns '' the 
Gothick taste of Italy ^'^^ because he had 
been accustomed to admire the gaudy 
carving of the columns in the squares of 
Styria, and of the churches in Carinthia) 
-cannot withold his astonishment at seeing 
so many master-pieces of architecture and 
sculpture ; and such productions of the 
vivifying pencils of the immortal Raphael, 
Michael Angelo, and Leonardo da Vinci, 
as well as of artists now living, w^ho still 
reflect honour on Italy. For this country, 
notwithstanding the lengthened horrours 
of war and bloodshed, continues to teem 
with a race capable of closely following 
the steps of nature, men endowed with 
the gifts of transcendant imagination and 
invention ; and neither oppression nor 
chains are sufficient to repress the soarings 
of their genius, 



XXll INTRODUCTION. ' 

I left Italy after staying a short time at 
Turin. This city, deprived of all the 
splendour it had enjoyed while the court 
existed, had now become the seat of phi- 
losophy. Many of the literati of Italy 
had fixed their residence here : for as Pied- 
mont and Lombardy did not border oH 
countries suspicious to the Austrian gov- 
ernment, the people were no longer afraid 
of their territory becoming the immediate 
seat of war. The successes of the French 
in Piedmont had never occasioned my as- 
tonishment till I visited that country, ex- 
amined its topography, and convinced my- 
self of the facility by which its position 
might have been rendered impregnable, 
particularly as the inhabitants are acknowl- 
-edged to be of a martial disposition. 

France at that time had already confer- 
red the imperial diadem on one of the most 
strenuous defenders of the republick ; but 
such a political change, though so very 
interesting and astonishing in a nation that 
had v/aded in the blood of millions of vic- 
tims for the establishment of that chimera 



INTRODUCTIOK. XXlU 

equality^ merely occupied the mind of the 
French as a matter of novelty. The meas- 
ures of government were no longer ob- 
jects of their attention, as is natural to 
every people whose thoughts are princi- 
pally fixed on pleasure and amusement. 
What inconsistency of character did 1 not 
perceive at Paris ! I found the men who 
had been the most virulent persecutors of 
the bishops, and of the catholick religion, 
during the commencement of the revolu- 
tion, now become the apologists of that 
religion : those who h..d formerly been the 
most credulous, were pointed out to me 
as true and zealous devotees ; and it was 
quite the ton to be thought a rigid cath- 
olick. I found men in the senate, who 
liad been the abettors of the most dread- 
ful massacres while liberty was in fashion, 
but were now the most ardent supporters 
of the recent elevation of Bonaparte. The 
Parisians would shed tears on speaking of 
the cruel end of Lewis the Sixteenth, and 
Marie Antoinette, though accelerated by 
tliemselves. The women talked with rap- 
ture of the beauty and affability of the de- 



'SxiV Il^TRODUCTIOK'* 

ceased queen ; and the men of the moral- 
ity of Lewis ; yet they applauded the gov- 
ernment of the man who now wielded the 
sceptre ; and while they condemned many 
violent measures of the present court, they 
in the mean time found reasons to excul- 
pate and justify them. In general they 
accused Bonaparte of partiality and ambi- 
tion ; although in fact they did not con- 
cern themselves so much about the gov- 
ernment as about their diversions, and dis- 
sipation, or the study of the sciences, and 
other branches of learning. They were 
tired of commotion and massacre. To 
some the fortune and riches they had ac- 
quired, were inducements to tranquillity, 
others were reconciled through fear, sev- 
eral by the allurements of distinction, and 
others again were remarkable for their flat- 
tery of the new men. The generality 
were marked by inconstancy, a quality 
peculiar to almost every people guided in 
tlieir opinion by the few, because incap- 
able of judging for themselves ; they al- 
ways concur in the success, accede to the 
elevation, and participate in the misfor- 



INTRODUCTION. XXV 

tunes of their chiefs. The affluent French 
were satisfied with their theatres, their 
National Institute, and the decorations of 
the Legion of Honour ; and the people 
were contented with the occasional reports 
of some great project, or favourable intel- 
ligence, which seldom failed to excite mo- 
mentary enthusiasm. 

The government had already become 
'purely military, and consequently incon- 
sistent with a S3^stem of peace, which 
would have disbanded the immense ar- 
mies calculated for conquest, though at 
first they had been formed for the purpose 
of crushing the revolt likely to happen a- 
gainst a government tottering and inse- 
cure, from the want of that popular attach- 
ment and respect, which are incompatible 
with power nev/iy acquired. The senate 
and legislative body still appeared the bul- 
wark of a constitution, which however 
had been completely subverted : their sole 
remaining prerogative extended no further 
than merely to assent to the laws or orders 
that were imposed. The generals being 

c 



XXVI INTRODUCtlOH. 

possessed of vast property, and themselves 
Frenchmen, soon laid aside the jealousy 
"which the elevation of an individual might 
have at first occasioned. 



Bonaparte, subsequent to the accom^ 
plishment of those plans to ^^ hich his cares 
were directed during the space of three 
years (while he pressed the French people 
to compliance Vvith them) permitted Eu- 
rope to repose for a short interval. When 
he had surprised the French by his as- 
sumption of the imperial dignity, and dis- 
covered his inclination to establish himself 
their absolute chief, he found it requisite 
to engage his armies in further conquest ; 
thus pleasing the people with the prospect 
of glory and prosperity to the nation. 
Having augmented his powerful iniiuence 
by the subjugation of countries bordering- 
on France, and putting them under the^ 
government of persons on whose adhesiorr 
to the French interest he could depend ; 
new projects, and more extensive prepara* 
tions, were then in agitation throughout 
France, for the purpose of carrying on the 



INTRODUCTION^'. XXVU 

maritime wai\ Though Bonaparte pro- 
mulgated his desire of conckiding a peace 
Vvith Great Britain in a letter to the king, 
he continued to adopt measures for pursu- 
ing war on the continent* 

He began the establishment of the mon- 
archy intended for Holland, by first framing 
its constitution, and naming a chief- magis- 
trate. He also successfully obtained the 
alliance of some of the German princes, 
of which he well knew how to avail hini^ 
self in case of a war with Austria, an 
event easily foreseen, after the changes he 
thought to have effected in Italy. 

The adhesion of Prussia to the steos 
which had been taken by France ; the 
complaints of the king of Prussia Against 
Sweden respecting a treaty of subsidies 
iviiich that country wished to conclude 
with England, and the answer of Austria 
to France, that the troops which vrere 
maixhing down the Tyro], as well as into 
Dalmatia, Vvxre intended only for extend- 
ing a line to keep off the yellow fever, 



S^VUl INTRODUCTION. 

then raging in Tuscany ; made Bonaparte 
imagine that no continental coalition with 
England was likely to impede the execu* 
tion of the innovations v/hich he premed- 
itated. The principality of Piombino was 
conferred on his brother-in-law : in the 
oext place he got himself proclaimed king 
of Italy ; and soon after departed for Mi- 
lan to assume the iron crown of the Lom- 
bards. All this news set the French in 
activity, for their busy minds are contin- 
ually in pursuit of novelty and pomp ; but 
Bonaparte had hardly left Paris, before 
these topicks appeared forgotten,^ nor did 
I hear a single word more about them. 
The Parisians became deeply engaged in 
the composition of epigrams, and inscrip- 
tions for triumphal arches, while the as- 
s^mbltd senate pronounced their senti- 
ments upon the journey that Bonaparte 
was performing in the Alps and F/edmont. 

A misunderstanding had then arisen be- 
tween the king of Sweden and Prussia, 
.about the Legion of Honour^ and that of 
t|ie Black Eagle ; but something of great* 



INTRODUCTION. XXIX 

er importance interfered, which caused 
these punclilios to be set aside. 

The demolished Cisalpine repubiick 
had witnessed the iron crown of Desiderio 
on the brow of Bonaparte. The new title 
he had assumed, sufficiently announced the 
consequences that were likely to result to 
the rest of Italy, and every power appre- 
hended that changes would take place in- 
compatible with that system of peace, 
which the journey of the emperour Alex- 
ander's negotiator had induced people to 
expect. On my road to Germany at that 
time, while passing by the w^ay of Venice, 
I heard that Genoa had been constituted 
a department of France, and the repub- 
lick of Lucca annexed to the dominioUvS: 
of the prince of Piombino, BachioccL 

Germany w^as but just recovering from 
the evils of scarcity : the people, however, 
appeared to enjoy ease, and were extreme- 
ly attached to their just and clement sove- 
reign. I remarked that the variety of 
laws, and complex methods by which the 



XXX INTR0DUCTr0Br> 

emperour's different states were governed, 
render the dispatch of business in the 
councils of Vienna rather tardy ; and, be- 
sides, the number of dialects spoken in 
Bohemia, Moravia, Hungaiy, Carnia, &c, 
with their several constitutions, impede 
in some measure a certain degree of una- 
nimity in that empire ; yet, notwithstand- 
ing, it was gratifying to learn that the in- 
habitants of those countries, satisfied with 
their present condition, were the least in- 
clined to sedition. 

A deficiency of gold and silver coin pre- 
vents the greatest part of Germany from 
enjoying the advantages of an extensive 
trade, the principal source of national pros- 
perity. As the bank notes pass for a third 
less than their nominal value, this reduces 
its commerce and exchange with other na- 
tions, to a stat^ of increasing debt ; how- 
ever, the internal resources of the mines, 
and productions of the earth, ensure a 
permanent means of prosperity, independ- 
ent of navigation, which certainly contri- 
butes but little towards it% 



INTRODUCTION. XXXI 

During the first days of my residence 
in Vienna, every thing breathed happiness 
and joy, though an active correspondence 
was known to prevail between that cabinet, 
and those of St. James's and Petersburg. 
7'he German people are nowise concerned 
about the fate of foreign countries, yet 
take a lively interest in whatever regards 
their own sovereign. The couriers that 
arrived daily from Russia', the continual 
march of troops by Vienna, the empe- 
rour's visit to the camp at Wells, attract- 
ed the curiosity of the inhabitants toward 
events which seemed to promise results 
of the greatest importance ; and I do not 
remember any occurrence of the kind that 
I had felt so forcibly, as the change occa- 
sioned by this means in the circles there, 
in which formerly I had hardly ever heard 
a word spoken on politicks. 

The title of king of Italy, by which 
Bonaparte had superseded the Cisalpine 
republick ; the recent annexation of the 
Genoese state to the French empire, and 
of the republick of Lucca, to Piombino ; 



XXXll IN'TRODUCTION. 

in addition to the march of French forces 
to the Tyrolese frontiers and into Dalma- 
tia ; not only obstructed a continuation of 
the treaty of peace, for the completion of 
which M. NovozilzoiF had undertaken his 
journey, but convinced the emperours of 
Russia and Germany, that Bonaparte had 
hostile views with regard to the Venetian 
state and the kingdom of Naples. Thus 
all hope having vanished of restoring a 
general peace to Europe, it became the 
interest of every power to put a stop to 
the pretensions of France, which, in defi- 
ance of treaties, continued to augment its 
territory, giving no other reason, than that 
it was for the peace and security of the 
people, 

- At the cabinet of Vienna the coalition 
was now forming between the Northern 
Powers. The tergiversations of the king 
of Prussia, and the equivocal conduct of 
Bavaria had created the greatest anxiety 
in every mind ; yet this, instead of occa- 
sioning a protraction of military proceed- 
ings on the part of Austria (at least till the 



INTRODUCTION. XXXIU, 

Russians should be nearer at hand), accel- 
erated the accompUshment of the concert- 
ed measures for commencing hostilities. 
A seeming impatience on the side of the 
ministers precij)itated the operations ; and 
notwithstanding the intelligence received 
that the Elector Palatine was in alliance 
with France, while Prussia was irresolute> 
ly acting only by complaints and empty 
words, and nowise disposed to fight ^ 
while the Swedish troops were in Pomera- 
nia, and those of Russia in Moravia ; the 
alarm of war resounded from the banks of 
the Rhine. 

The internal trade of Germany was al- 
most completely annihilated from the com- 
mencement of the war,, particularly in the 
neighbouring provinces of Austria ; and 
the immense consumption of the armies 
reduced them to the most exhausted state. 
At the same time every foreigner was obli- 
ged to depart from Vienna, and I, like 
the rest, left it, directing my way to 
Trieste* 



XXKlV INTRODUCTION-, 

I had beeii long absent from my native 
country ; and to return to my parents now 
became a desire so ardent, that I did not 
allow myself the necessary time for that 
examination of objects, which renders 
traveMing beneficiaL On almost every oc- 
casion that offered for my edification, the 
1^ collection of my distant relatives, with 
whom 1 shoy^ld have wished to divide my 
pleasures, rose to embitter my amuse- 
ments* Europe having again become the 
-theatre of war, it was neither agreeable 
noi* secure for a traveller to pass through 
fields of battle, or reside in towns wher^ 
the police scrutinize even the most harm- 
less actions of strangers, and where at is 
necessary to give ample details of e very- 
step one takes, undergoing the calumni- 
ous denunciations of those informers, who, 
instead of preserving peace, are often in- 
tent on subverting tlie people'^ happiness ; 
detestable miscreants, actuated hj their 
,own hatred, instead of that zeal in favour 
of the government, which is expected of 
them. 



liNTROBUCTION* XXXV" 

I'htse reasons induced me to return to 
Sicily, and I would ha\;e c^mbarkcd at 
Trieste, if I had been able to find a ves- 
sel bound for that island ; at that time, 
however, the commerce between Trieste 
and the ports in the Mediterranean was 
greatly diminished. I proceeded to Ve- 
nice therefore, as it appeared to me the least 
insecure of those cities near the seat of 
war. Some of the Venetians were very 
uneasy about the results to which they 
thought themselves exposed, in case of 
the cnem.y's gaining any advantages. 
The news of the battles of Wertineen 
and Gunsburg had arrived, and the Frenc h 
retained their position at Verona. Though 
the Arch-duke had been victorious at Cal- 
diero, the dreadful check received by the 
Austrians at Uim, and the insufficiency 
of force in-the Tyrol to assist him, obliged 
him to carry his aimy through the defiles 
of Garinthia, for the purpose of protect- 
ing' Austria, which was already in clanger. 

The Austriai^ had been employed in 
putting Venice in a stitte of defence, rais- 



ing batteries on all the islands thereabout ; 
and the communication was cut off be^ 
tween this city and the Tyrol, and the rest 
of Italy. Several Austrian regiments were 
left for its protection ; but in the mean 
time the enemy's cannon was actually 
heard, as he furiously advanced ; and 
while the French were insulting the resi- 
dences of the greatest sovereigns in Ger- 
many, and the Bavarians were seen to 
titke up arms against the chief of the Ger- 
manick body, in favour of their new al- 
lies, news reached us from every quarter, 
of the slaughter and defeats in Austria. 
Venice was now besieged so closely, that 
it appeared as if it were soon to be redu- 
ced to the miseries of famine ; yet with 
such horrours around them, the Venetians 
in triumph contemplated those waniours 
whose arms had terrified and reduced the 
inhabitants of every neighbouring city ou 
the terra Jirma ; and felt conscious that 
their town, being surrounded by Water^ 
v/as out of the reach of their enemies' 
artillery. Though all the usual passages 
of communication were blocked up, pro- 



INTRODUCTION. XXXVll 

tisions arrived by other channels (as is 
natural when the prospect of gain is ofter- 
ed, for all duties were abolished by pro- 
clamation), notwithstanding the strict vigi- 
lance of the French. The awful state of 
the continent, the devastation and dread- 
ful calamities of the war, and even their 
own blockade, were incapable of suspend- 
ing for a moment the gaiety of the Vene- 
tians. They took no more concern iu 
these disasters, than merely that of con- 
sidering them as ne^w topicks of conversa- 
tion ; the theatres and coffee-houses con- 
tinued, as usual, to be their delight, and 
I never once perceived the smallest change 
in that hilarity peculiar to them. But 
what was the fate of the Venetian land- 
holders at the time ! Their estates and 
country houses were exposed to depreda- 
tion ; and their incomes were absorbed in 
paying the burdensome contributions of 
the enemy ; to whose rapacity and fury at 
the first shock, the whole country was left 
exposed and abandoned ! The Austrian 
government ordered many of the strangers 
to quit Venice ; and I, though the subject 



OiXXVlll TNTRODITGTIOH. 

of a monarch who had taken no active 
part in that war, was sent to look for safe- 
ty among the French ! But this was im- 
practicable ; for I had hardly arrived near 
Fiisina, when a French piquet saluted me 
with a double discharge of their muskets, 
and I was obliged to return to Venice. 
Fortunately, however, the Austrian gov- 
ernment was not one of terrour, and in- 
stead of being forced away, I was permit^ 
ted to remain in peace : but of how short 
a duration v/as the tranquillity which Ve- 
nice enjoyed under the Austrians 1 

About this time we heard of the won- 
ders achieved at Trafalgar, by the tri* 
iimphant fleet of Great Britain, but fame 
seemed equally solicitous to announce the 
fall of her victorious hero. News also 
came, that the French had penetrated in- 
to Moravia ; that Hungary offended at the 
conduct of the EniDcrour's ministers, and 
sensible of the difliculty of unitifig her 
forces with the Austrians, had resolved to 
think only for her own safety, and avoid 
the uncertain chances of war ; that the 



INTRODUCTION. XXXIX 

urch-duke Charles was not yet in a situa- 
tion to assist the imperial army ; and that 
the king of Prussia, (the only power able 
to cause a diversion of the enemy's forces, 
by helping the combined armies of Ger- 
many and Russia), adopting a line of pol- 
icy which has led to his ruin, had order^ 
ed his troops to stop their march, contra- 
ry to general expectation, as people were 
led to believe, that they were to join in 
the coalition. Serious fears consequently 
began nOw to be entertained ; it was -per- 
ceived that the enemy would be able to 
bring his forces to bear on one point ; and 
that by a single battle, the fate of all Ger^ 
many might be decided. While individ* 
aals were thus engaged with these political 
speculations, the destiny of kingdoms and 
armies had been already effected in the 
ensanguined plains of Austerlitz, 

Peace was desirable, in order to termi- 
nate the dreadful carnage of a fatal war^ 
which in the course of two months had 
occasioned the fall of thousands of victims : 
it was loudly demanded, not only Ibr the 



M INTRODUGTIO^r. 

purpose of relieving individuals from dis- 
tress, but whole nations ^ and what man 
would not have offered his m<Dst ardent 
prayers for the restoration of prosperity 
and ease to his country, that he might no 
longer witness ambition organizing ar- 
tniea for the sole purpose of subverting 
kingdoms ! I was extremely desirous to 
embrace my relatives and other friends, 
and of visiting my native soil ; but no one 
could flatter himself with the pacification 
of Europe, after such defeats ; which nat- 
urally inspired the victors with desires of 
further conquest, left in the bosom of Rus- 
sians a wish to vindicate their wrongs, 
placed Prussia in an extremely precarious 
situation, and the Germanick body in one 
equally dangerous. The French had re- 
duced Denmark and Sweden to the neces- 
sity of assuming a defensive attitude; 
while with regard to England they multi- 
plied her grievances by the hostile meas- 
ures which were in agitation against th^ 
South of Italy. 

Whatever events were likely to ensiie> 



llf'^RODUCTION. Xli 

I could have by no means imagined that 
I should be obliged to iiy from Italy, to 
pass through the Tyrol, Styria, Austria, 
and Bohemia ; to transport myself to Po- 
land and Livonia, and pass the Baltick on 
my way to England ; at a time when I had 
thought my travels completed, and was. 
anxious to arrive in Sicily ! Who could 
have supposed that I was to remain at Ve- 
nice such a length of time, and subse- 
quently to participate in the vicissitudes 
reserved for a person unknown to me ; en- 
counter the most imminent dangers ; re- 
treat by the most rugged paths of the 
mountains ; suffer imprisonment, change 
my name, deny my condition, and seek 
for hospitality and shelter among the Rus- 
sians ; and finally proceed to England, 
there to admire the basis of its commer- 
cial riches, arising from industry unpar- 
alleled ; and to observe the consummate 
wisdom by which its incomparable consti- 
tution is supported and kept in activity, 
rendering political discord compatible with 
personal friendship and esteem ? 

D 2 



ilii iNTRODuexfo^." 

I only waited for the final arrangement 
of affairs at Venice to depart, and expect- 
ed to have the pleasure soon afterwards 
of being with my relatives. Little did I 
imagine that the actions of a man does not 
depend upon himself; or at least that it 
was impossible to divine their occurrence ; 
but experience taught me that any similar 
calculations were fallacious, and solely the 
result of my own presumption. 

While war continued in Germany, I 
<iOuld not regard myself as an enemy tO' 
the French ; but upon peace being con-^ 
eluded with Austria, I was bound to con- 
sider myself such. Italy was extremely 
agreeable to me, yet I was obliged to aban- 
don it. I wished to embrace my parents ;. 
but I had to remove further from them* 
An opportunity offered for me to assist an- 
unfortunate person ; I embraced it, and 
succeeded in effecting the liberty of two 
infants. I thought myself capable of 
breaking the chains of their mother ; I 
undertook to save her. Futurity was re-, 
plete with various events : I determined 



iiffRODUcTioN. xliii 

on facing them. It appeared as if fate 
had included me in the number of those 
doomed to hazardous attempts ; yet I wil- 
lingly engaged in accomplishing the pur- 
poses suggested both by a strong sense of 
my duty as a man, and the common feel^ 
ings of humanity. 



TRAVELS, 



1 HE peace of Presburgh occasioned the 
blockade of Venice to be raised ; but as 
the French troops directed towards Naples 
refused a free passage to every person not 
subject to French controul, this unpleas- 
ant state of continued war prevented me 
from continuing my journey homeward* 
I was desirous to undertake any practica- 
ble way of reaching Leghorn, where I 
could have easily found a conveyance for 
Sicily ; unfortunately however I was seiz- 
ed at this period with a long and danger- 
ous illness which greatly reduced my 
strength, nor did I begin to recover till 
the early part of February. About the 
middle of January 1806, the French force 
imder general Lauriston entered Venice, 
^nd established a new government there. 



46 

This change in the political system of a 
city which for several years had enjoyed 
a perfect tranquillity, offered a most inter- 
esting instance of the vicissitudes to which 
even states are subject. The most un- 
bounded licence was granted to all games 
of hazard ; and this opened the way to 
the utter ruin of the fortunes of a people 
who^ idle by nature and education, wil- 
lingly indulged themselves in such puF^ 
»Qit3 during those hours which beford 
were passed in coffee-houses, tvhere the 
Venetians loiter away moat of their time* 
The bamk^ at the publjck gaming-rooms, 
ia every corner^ became the medium of 
speculation which occupied aU the atten- 
tion of the Venetians. In ^\tty street the 
gayest masks were seen at all hours of the 
day, according to ancient custom; and 
the people,^ absorbed in their diversions^ 
were blind to the measures of a govern* 
laiient intent on extinguishing that remnant 
of independence and peace which was the 
sole vestige of their ancient greatness.* 

* This policy tends to weaken the people, by utter- 
ly precluding the possibility of vindicating theif 



47 

Konc of those who boast their noble lin- 
eage by the exhibition of splendid por- 
traits of the former rulers of the Adriatick, 
none of the proud oiFspring of doges and 
senators, shewed the least desire to oppose 
their new masters. I observed that, of 
all people, the Venetians bore subjugation 
with the greatest indiiference ; it even 
seemed to be congenial to them :— they 
knew better how to discuss principles of 
legislation, than practically to govern. 

This alteration of affairs however did 
not lead me to apprehend any obstacle to 
my departure, and I therefore desired a 
passport for Sicily. I was asked what v/as 
my native country ; and when I had an* 
swered this question, the minister of the 
police said that it was necessary to consult 
the government on this point. The arri- 
val of prince Eugene de Beauharnois re- 

wrongs : their energy is enervated by every species 
of licentiousness and luxury. But such a method 
of reducino: the citizen to wretchedness, has some* 
times roused him through despair, riid animated 
him to insurrection. '^ 



48 

t^rded an answer to my demand* The 
Venetians on this occasion were busily 
occupied in preparing festivals of a nature 
quite unknown to the inhabitants of the 
terra firma. Ambitious to display an 
Asiatick pomp on their circumambient 
waters, they afforded to this new prince 
an opportunity for forming a judgment of 
their character, 

I waited till a more regular form was 
given to the tribunal of the police, before 
I renewed my application for the passport ; 
and at last^ after insisting on an answer, 
and on knowing the cause of such delay, 
I was told that I could not with safety de- 
part fo^ Sicily with a French pass, till the 
fate of my country was decided. 

In this condition, every object which 
had hitherto been so extremely interesting 
to me, changed its aspect. During my 
residence in the city of Venice, I had 
hitherto availed myself of all the amuse- 
ments offered to a young traveller ; but 
now living under the dominion of the ene- 



49 

mies of my king* and country^ I found 
that any longer stay would be insupport- 
able. Every communication also between 
Sicily and the continent being interdicted, 
I was deprived of the happiness of cor- 
responding with my family. The society 
of the Venetians was entirely directed to 
gaming-tables and lotteries, to which I 
always had an antipathy : such pastimes 
were disgusting to me. 

Being thus undietermined on what to re- 
solve, I was quite unhappy : I felt a de- 
sire to quit Venice ; but the obstacles to 
doing this in the manner I wished, in- 
creased my anxiety. The inactive state 
to which I was reduced, rendered me a 
burden to myself, and 1 lingered away my 
time in torpid apathy. The prospect of 
my fate seemed gloomy ; vigour forsock 
my mind, and my heart was depressed 
by the heaviest presentiments of futurity. 

On my first arrival at Venice from Vi- 
enna, I had the pleasure of forming an ac- 
quaintance with the countess Attems. 

£ 



50 

■rfiis lady, who was daughter to baroo 
Herbert (the emperour's minister at the 
Ottoman Porte), lived- at Venice with her 
husband. To a cultivated mind, and a 
love of the arts, she united an amiable- 
ness of character of which I soon experi- 
enced the advantage J as she did me the 
honour of admitting me to her company, 
I had heard much of the acquired and per- 
sonal accomplishments of Mrs. Spencer 
Smith, sister to the countess ; but during 
the whole time that 1 had lived in that city 
(five months), I had not had an opportu^ 
nity of becoming acquainted with her. 

Mrs. Smith, being obliged to afeandoii 
the severer climates of England and Ger- 
many, had come to Venice, where she 
had at this period resided above a twelv^-' 
month. The very strict regimen which 
she followed for the recovery of her healthy 
prevented her from frequenting the socie- 
ty of the Venetians ; and when the French 
entered, being anxious to avail herself still 
further of the pure air of Italy (w^hich was 
judged the most effectual remedy towards 



51 

her re-establishment), she requested to be 
informed by general Lauristonj whether 
jshe could flatter herself with being granted 
|)ermission to stay at Venice in security, 
And without having to fear subjection to 
the measures of a hostile power. The 
general, in reply, not only assured her of 
Jber personal safety, and proraised that she 
should have nothhig to apprehend in the 
way of arrest, or orders to depart, but 
supplied her with a passport to enable her 
to quit Venice Avhenever she pleased. 
Such promises and assurances could not 
leave any doubt in the mind of Mrs, 
Smith, nor cause her to hesitate a moment 
in resolving to protract her stay, together 
with that of her two infant children, Sid- 
ney and Edward. 

; It was at the theatre of San Samuel, 
that I had the honour of being presented 
.to Mrs. Smith, by her sister; and two 
months elapsed before I saw her again. 
-The inclemency of w inter now fled at the 
approach of spring ; mild and serene days 
jsincceeded those of frost and snow ; and 



B2 

Mrs. Smith, no longer fearful of the pcr^ 
nicious iniluence of the atmosphere on her 
weak constitution, began to visit her sis- 
ter. That young lady's versatility of tal- 
ent shone conspicuously in every pursuit : 
she happily added to a correct knowledge 
of several languages, a most lively ima- 
gination ; and to her natural disposition, 
which was extremely pleasant, she joined 
-a vast degree of refined wit. Her sister's 
parties of course grew still more agree- 
able and interesting by such an acqui- 
sition. 

In the mean time, my situation was far 
ftom being satisfactory : the time passed 
away, but I continued to remain uncertain 
of my destiny. The dull monotony into 
which Venice had fallen, oppressed my 
spirits to a degree that made me weary of 
an existence which appeared to promise no 
future source of felicity : though I spent 
many of my hours in the company of ba- 
ron Villetti (a friend of the countess At- 
tems) and Mrs. Smith; availing myself 
of the society of these ladies, and occa- 



53 

sionally exercising myself with them in 
the fine arts, particularly musick, for the 
purpose of obtaining a respite from mel- 
ancholy and anxiety. 

I felt however the want of some stimulus 
to rouse me from the torpor that gained 
upon me ; and waited impatiently for sucli 
a favourable turn of fate, in order to re- 
cover my wonted spirit of activity. But 
it was not long before I experienced this 
impulse, in the project of relieving from 
the cruel fangs of the enemy an innocent 
victim, and two children, doomed to pass 
their days in captivity, or perhaps to see 
their mother fall a sacrifice even in her in- 
disposed state. My resolution was soon 
fixed : it could not have been otherwise, 
when such objects appeared before a man 
of feeling. It pointed out to me at once 
both the path for flying from the enemy, 
and for arriving at the territory of a friend- 
ly sovereign. My heart glowed at the 
thought of being able to render an essen- 
tial service to an individual belonging to 
the British nation. 

E 2: 



54 

Though Mrs. Smith had received the 
French general's word of honour for her 
security, and a promise that no molesta- 
tion whatever should be offered to her du- 
ring her stay at Venice ; though she was 
provided with a passport to be used when- 
ever she might choose to depart, and was 
now residing at Venice under' the coiifi- 
dence which she had placed in the Frencb 
general's promise ; she received, on the 
10th of April, an order to appear before 
the police. 



On her attending according to the sum- 
mons, she was declared to be under ar- 
rest as a French prisoner ; and received 
an order to depart within a week for the- 
city of Bassano, the place fixed upon by 
the government for her to reniain at. She 
demanded to know the reason for which 
^he w^as thus treated ; and was answered : 
^' Your country, and your name." Now 
her native country was not England ;' and 
astohtrname, the assurances which she 
had received, and the passport granted 
to her^ under the same name, ought to 



55 

liavc ser^^ed as ample securities against 
any such conduct. Arguments of tliis 
kind however could have no weight with 
subordinate officers, who only executed 
the commands of their superiours. 

Still I flattered myself that these consid- 
erations, if represented to Monsieur La- 
garde (who presided over the police), 
might prevent him from putting his orders 
into effect; but neither these, nor the 
friendly interference of '. many persons of 
the first influeuce) were sufficient to pro- 
duce the smallest favourable alteration* 

Mrs. Smith herself applied personally 
to Monsieur Lagarde ; and expressed her 
astonishment at being declared a prisoner 
of war as an Englishwoman, though her 
birth-place was Constantinople, and tlrnt 
of her parents was Vienna : besides that 
no pretext of this sort could reasonably 
deprive her of liberty in opposition to 
general Lauriston's word of honour, and 
his passport, upon the security of which 
fihe. had formed the resolution to remain. 



56 

at Venice after the entrance of the French 
troops into that city. She added that, 
placing the firmest confidence in these 
promises, she never could have been in- 
duced to suspect the possibility of such a 
breach of faith, which was even an act of 
violence. She little imagined that the per- 
mission to remain unmolested, could Be 
altered into a subsequent arrest that de- 
clared her a prisoner ; thus changing a lib- 
eral and friendly favour into a means for 
the better surprising her with an armed 
force, and exposing her to hostile treat- 
ment. All these arguments were advan- 
ced in vain to this man, who had received 
positive directions for his conduct in this 
respect. He answered that her arrest was 
amply justified by the name alone of 
Smithy of which she could not divest her- 
self ; and her being the sister-in-law of 
sir Sidney, and wife of Mr. Spencer 
Smith, placed her in a! situation that pre- 
cluded any mitigation of the order of im- 
prisonment. Surely such a pretext re- 
quires no remark to prove its palpable in- 
significance ; nor could any thing be more 



57 

ridiculous than thus to wage war against 
a name, on the ground of its connection 
with a brave admiral and a zealous diplo- 
matist ; or harder than this lady's captivi- 
ty, afflicted as she then was with a severe 
illness ! 

In the mean time Lagarde, unwilling to 
acquaint her with the fate which was real- 
ly determined upon for her, pretended to 
permit her to choose any city to reside in 
except Venice : alleging that the chief 
motive for sending her away from a marr 
itime place arose from a desire in the gov- 
ernment, that no suspicion might take 
place of her holding a correspondence with 
the English. Thus those intrepid war- 
riours who brave the thunder of heaven 
itself ; who sneer at the coalesced efforts 
of united nations however powerful ; are 
afraid of allowing an Englishwoman to re- 
side at a sea-port town, as she might give 
intelligence to their brave enemy, the only 
one capable of effectually opposing them ! 
Those generous sons of war, who at the 
battle of Ulm set the very general free af=* 



53 

-%er' haviiTtg siirrehdered himself a prisoner, 
jof war, in token of their ineffable con-- 
tempt for their foes, use the utmost rigour, 
.and adopt th^ most illiberal measures, to-^ 
wards this individual, as well as others 
belonging to a nation whose recent tro- 
phies bear the names of the Nile, Acre^ 
Trafalgar, and Maid a. 

V Mrs. Smith confided in the minister's 
..dffer to mitigate her fate so far as to per- 
imit >her^ to * continue to enj oy the /benefit of 
'that climate at no great distance from Ve- 
mee, which would facilitate the pleasure 
rof seing^ her . sister frequently;. In coin- 
.pliance with her request, she wats allowed 
ten days before her departure, for the pur- 
pose of arranging, her concerns, and fix^ 
ing on the place of her future ■residence, 
Bhe went with me to visit the neighbour- 
ing towns ; and having fixed on Padua for 
Jier abode, she let the police know this, 
that her pa?iS]X)rt might be made for that 
fjlaee : but the next d^y, instead of re- 
jceiving it, she met a soldier in her apart- 
mentsj who came to announce that by or« 



59^ 

der of the government he was placed there 
to guard her person wherever she went; 
and that he wa^ answerable for her during 
her stay at Venice. This naturally ex- 
cited her suspicions as to what might en- 
sue ; and she in consequehce again soli- 
cited the police for the passport, six day» 
having expired of the ten. Far from re- 
fusing it, they promised to let her have it 
immediately ; and this, in a measure, eased 
her mind. 

This arrest of her person roused the 
c^iriosity of the Venetians ; and on its be- 
ing mentioned in several French, circles, 
die real destiny of Mrs. Smith was dis- 
covered by the undisguised hints of some 
of the French officers. I was one even* 
ing at the gaming-saloons of the Phenix 
theatre, the: great resort of people of fasli^ 
ion, when a female friend of mine, ^ Ve- 
netian fe'x-jioble, asked me whether I had 
heard ^oftlic 'unhappy fate reserved for 
Mrs. Smith. I answered, that I knew she 
was to reside at Padua iYi future, agree^ 
ably to the will of the French government ; 



60 

feut tny frifend mysteriously replied, that 
Lao:arde had received instructions to send 
her to Valenciennes. I shuddered at the 
intelligence, and considered for some hours 
whether I ought to inform Mrs, Smith of 
it or not ; however, imagining that though 
it might cause a disagreeable surprise, it 
would prepare her against the immediate 
consternation that such an event would 
produce if abruptly intimated, I resolved 
on letting her know what I had heard* 
Countess Attems also discovered some- 
thing similar ; but the police continuing 
to promise the passport to Padua for the 
next day with certainty, we were led to 
believe the report to be unfounded. The 
next day passed however without bring- 
ing any passport ; and in the evening, while 
we were at the house of Madame Attems^ 
extremely uneasy on account of this de-^ 
lay, and anxious to know what would 
happen, (as on such occasions people ex- 
ert their sagacity in conjecture and consul- 
tation), we brought forward all our stock 
of information and hypothesis, and dis- 
cussed the measures to be adopted in eve- 



61 



ry event. But about ten o'clock that 
night, the arrival of a serjeant, accom- 
panied by three gend'^armesy dissipated 
our suspense ; he arrested the person of 
Mrs. Spencer Smith, in the name of the 
Emperoiir of the French ; and conducted 
her with him, followed by the other sol- 
diers, to her lodgings. She there receiv- 
ed orders not to quit her chamber ; for the 
enforcement of which the gend/arme^ 
were posted outside the door. 

The most infamous assassin or traitor 
(^ould not have been more rigidly watch- 
ed, or surrounded by stricter guards, than 
was this unhappy lady. If she had con- 
spired against the French government, it 
would have been impossible to persecute 
her with more acrimony ; considering her 
distressed situation, borne down as she 
was by an illness that menaced her life. 
The confidence which she had placed in 
the enemy's promise of security was her 
only fault ; no stain of culpability appear- 
ed even to the French, except her con- 
nection with a name synonimous of patriot- 



a2 

ick attachment. This proceeding could 
xiot fail to rouse the feelings of every per- 
son, however disinterested, and inspire 
horrour at seeing such treatment offeredi 
to a young and delicate female. When 
we reflect on the commiseration arising at 
the sight of even the guilty when brought 
to punishment, what must our sentiments 
be, on beholding the innocent, and help- 
less victim, dragged to the altar of re- 
venge ! We should surely endeavour to 
snatch it from its persecutors. 

I now for the first time found myself 
agitated by a tumult of the most vehement 
feelings, affecting my soul far beyond the 
Usual sentiments of sorrow or compassion. 
My imagination at times was inllam.ed in 
a degree that gave me the keenest anguish ; 
and I shrunk with horrour at the condi^ 
tion of a lady, who far from her husband^ 
her mother, and her other friends, was 
left destitute of even a hope of relief. A 
desire of rendering myself serviceable to , 
her, filled my bosom. 



63 

The precise reason of all this rigour, 
however, was still unknown ; and as two 
days yet remained before her departure 
from Venice was to take place, Mrs. 
Smith requested leave to speak with the 
minister, that she might receive further 
information respecting her fate. Lagarde 
granted this, for no other end than to shew 
her prince Eugene^s order, in the name of 
the Emperour ; which specified, that with- 
in forty-eight hours she must depart from 
Venice, to be sent a prisoner of war to 
the fortress of Valenciennes, under the 
escort of genscTarmes. Every argument 
or entreaty in her behalf was entirely use- 
less : the will of those who imposed such 
orders was not to be appealed from. Sen- 
timents of pity too were out of the ques- 
tion ; and the natural difficulty arising 
from her impaired state of health, seemed 
only to stimulate Monsieur Lagarde to- 
wards accelerating the execution of his 
commission. 

It was ten o'clock in the morning, when 
"Mrs. Smith, having thus learnt the real 



64 

hitate of thin^s^ returned to her apartments: 
where the sister and brother-in-law, with 
two friends more, besides myself, waited ; 
and who were the only persons that ap- 
peared to condole with her in her present 
affiicting situation. The countess gave 
way to her grief, and shed tears in abund- 
ance, at finding they must soon part : she 
was unable to support the idea of Mrs. 
Smith's being consigned to a French pris- 
on, or perhaps even to w^orse evils ; and 
offered to participate in all the sufferings 
of her captivity. Embracing her, she cri- 
ed : *' I will go with you to Valenciennes, 
to alleviate the sorrows of confinement, 
and remain always with you, to partake of 
all your misfortunes.'' Her other friends 
endeavoured to console her, by represent- 
ing milder prospects of futurity : they ad- 
vised her to demand justice and compas- 
sion from the prince at Milan, and to write 
to her mother for the purpose of obtaining 
a release. But all this could give her lit- 
tle comfort : she alone felt even now all 
the pain of her situation ; she anticipated 
all the danger incident to her fiite, and hu 



65 

boiired under an awful presentiment of 
future events. Yet superiour to all this, 
and endued with fortitude sufficient to re- 
pel the terrour of impending evils, she 
roused the courage of her weeping friends ; 
nor once appeared shaken, till her lovely 
infants came running to her arms, to ask 
their mamma why she was so dull. While 
impressing kisses on them, she accused 
herself as the cause of their subjection to 
imprisonment, by her blind reliance on the 
promises of the enemy. She wished, by 
any sacrifice, to preserve them from such 
a situation : but how was this to be done ; 
and who was able to help her by saving 
them ? In evident anguish, she looked 
round on each of us for relief, and in 
mournful silence her eyes explained her 
supplication to us all : her maternal affec- 
tion begged for succour, and her mind for 
advice. At this distressing moment, I 
felt myself quite oppressed by a variety of 
sensations : unable to endure such a scene 
any longer, I left the room, and ran to 
shut. myself in my ow^n, where I could 
reflect on the best means to be adopted for 

F 2 



CO 

afibrding her my assistance ; with more 
€Oohiess> and without being distracted by 
the sight of their tears and affliction. 

As a loyal subject of the monarch by 
whose government and laws I was pre- 
served, and my property secured, I was 
bound to quit a place under the controuL 
of the enemies of my country ; nor was I 
then insensible how much it was indebted 
to the protection and alliance of England. 
i knew well that the security of our walls,, 
and the prosperity of our provinces, arose 
from the formidable interposition of Bri-^ 
tons in our behalf: and that my country 
^vas defended by the aid alone of that 
mighty nation, from the hurricane that 
overthrew and shook so many thrones. 
I considered what v/ould- have been the 
dangers of Sicily, if the invincible British 
flag had not cooled the ardour of those 
who had menaced that island. Ought I 
not therefore, on all occasions that should 
offer, to afford proof of my gratitude, as 
an).individual, towards every subject be- 
Jonginsr to the friendly and protecting na- 



67 

tion : aad m^re especially in the case of 
one like Mrs. S. Smith, harassed, sickly, 
and forlorn ; and whose situation called 
aloud for the friendly intervention of every 
man of feeling and resolution ? I con- 
jectured that she would perhaps have to 
endure the most trying hardships, from 
the circumstance of her connection with 
Sir Sidney Smith : but this was a still 
stronger stimulus ; for that British admi- 
ral had guarded my sovereigns to their 
throne, had exerted his transcendant cour* 
age and genius in the defence of my king 
luid country, and in my estimation de- 
served every token of my grateful ac- 
knowledgment. Such reflections alone 
would have been sufficient to incite me to 
the attempt: but they were vastly strength- 
ened by the deplorable situation of this 
lady, in being under the necessity of ei- 
ther abandoning her two infant boys ; or 
carrying them with her as prisoners, and 
deprived of all hope of relief or justice* 

Having reflected on these considerations^ 
I firmly resQlved on endeavouring to res- 



68 

cue her. In this I could perceive no in- 
surmountable difficulty, nor bring myself 
to calculate the dangers : my determina- 
tion precluded all susceptibility of fear ; 
and I believed that fortitude and persever- 
ance (if necessary) would ensure success. 
I thought the best method to adopt was, a 
secret flight. 

I ran to Mrs. Smith about six in the 
evening, to communicate my projects to 
her, availingmyself of the moments when 
we could not be overheard, for this pur- 
pose. '' Madam," said I, " sensible as I 
am of the unhappy situation and the dis- 
tress that await you, and conscious of my 
duty to assist in whatever I am able any 
individual belonging to the British nation, 
I offer you all the help that is in my power. 
Flight alone can save you : I will prepare 
and undertake it ; you shall second me, 
and follow my steps." On hearing these 
words, she looked at me with astonish- 
ment. Forgetful of her actual situation, 
she reproved me for even thinking of thus 
exposing my life and liberty. She said^ 



69 

tHat any such attempt would be attended 
with certain death ; and she then repre- 
sented the despair of my affectionate pa- 
rents at the loss of their son. " What 
remorse must I feel," continued she, *' if 
you were to fall a sacrifice to the enemy, 
who must discover any such plan ! What 
reproach, if you are surprised at the time 
without effecting any thing ! Would you 
not be the object of their most cruel re- 
venge ; and could I then forbear to accuse 
myself bitterly for encouraging such a 
desperate undertaking ? Should I not have 
reason to consider myself a probable cause 
of your untimely end, if I were to pef - 
mit measures, however generous, that are 
certainly neither prudent nor wise ? And 
what hope can there be, while I am thus 
continually watched ? How can you ex- 
pect success, when the government not 
only places guards over me in my room, 
but will order me to be followed by an 
armed force wherever I go ? It will ren- 
der the police and military force of every 
place through which I shall have to pass, 
responsible for my person. How can yoti 



70 

therefore be so blind, when such impedi- 
ments and dangers obviously present them^ 
selves ? Any attempt would at best turn 
out but fruitless, and very likely fatal to 
you in its consequences." All these ar» 
guments however could not induce me to 
relinquish my plan ; and the interest which 
she took in my personal security, served 
only to strengthen the duty that I conceiv* 
ed myself under of saving her if possible 
by any means. 

I answered her, that enterprises ingeti- 
eral increase in merit, propbrtionably with 
the dangers attending their execution : that 
all similar actions are uncertain as to their 
jposltive result; but when attended with 
success, their former uncertainty only 
serves to proclaim the degree of courage 
Or sagacity evinced by the projector of 
them. I expostulated with her on the ne- 
cessity which I felt of discontinuing habits 
of life that were insupportable, any longer, 
and that every man ought to seek for op- 
portunities of distinguishing himself hon- 
ourably : that in my own opinion and feel- 



ings, I wanted an object worthy of ex- 
citing me to be usefui, and rousing me to 
the performance of any deed that could 
reflect honour on my name. I convinced 
her that it was my positive duty to assist 
her ; and of the propriety of my quitting 
a country belonging to the foes of my sove- 
reign, as well as of the sanction of my 
relatives to any attempt that rendered me 
worthy of my family. 

As to the difficulty of escaping from the 
guards that so watchfully surrounded her, 
and the dangers of pursuit and surprise, 
to which she alluded, I answered that I 
did not fear them ; and that I thought 
it impossible they could discover me. 
*^ This/' said I, *^ may appear rash and 
inconsiderate, but on the present occasion 
no other words can be used. Fear must 
never intervene to obstruct, when prudence 
is insufficient to deter. No man ought 
ever to suppose himself either weaker or 
less capable than another. If by tho 
mind alone we are able to transcend the 
Usual sphere of human capacity, or to 



sink to a level with the brute , Why are we 
to apprehend being accused of vanity by 
the prejudiced and obscure being who casts 
his virulent aspersions against every hu- 
man action j whether virtuously or vicious- 
ly directed? Regardless of the shafts of 
malignity, let us adhere to a favourable 
opinion of our own capacity, and not think 
ourselves less sagacious or daring than 
the enemy with whom we haveto contendi 
By a base dereliction of our resources, 
and confession of our weakness, we af- 
ford him every advantage : on the contra- 
ry, let us imagine ourselves equal to vic^ 
tory, and success must ensues" 

I assured her that death is at a greater 
distance from the man who does not fear 
it, than most people imagine ; and finally 
that my desire could no longer suffer to be 
rejected or even opposed. This language^ 
pronounced with a force of emphasis- aris- 
ing from the sentiments by which I was 
animated^ reduced her to the necessity of 
resisting me no longer : I availed myself 
of the moment, for obtaining her word of 



73 

konour to second me ; and insisted on her 
keeping the secret to herself. 

These preliniinaries being agreed upon, 
I commenced my plan by saving the chil- 
dren ; for as they had not been placed 
under the immediate vigilance of the gov- 
ernment, I supposed they might be easily 
carried off from Venice. I made no se- 
cret of this to the eountess or her friends ; 
and the same nidit it was settled that the 
following day, under pretence of going to 
hear mass with their preceptor at the next 
church, they were to come to a certain 
spot where I was to wait with a gondola, 
to convey them to Mestre, the nea.rest city 
on the terra-firma. From this place they 
were to be sent post, w^ithout delay, to 
Gratz ; where the countess Strazzoldo, 
another sister of Mrs. Smith resided. At 
seven o'clock in the morning, the children 
were with me. Ignorant of their destiny, 
they asked me more than once why their 
^ mother did not come with them ; and why 
the soldiers were about the house ; when 
they were to see mamma again, and why 

G 



74 

they left her behind now. At every step 
their woj ds drew tears from my eyes ; re- 
jecting how uncertain the period was when 
they were again to meet her- — perhaps 
never. At eleven o'clock, Elmaurer (the 
preceptor) had not returned from prepar- 
ing the things for the journey, and the boat 
for Mestre. During this interval I con- 
ceived die idea of offering a most agree- 
able sight to a mother who must have 
thought her children gone several hours 
before, but this must take place unknown 
to the guards. For that purpose I wrote 
her a note in the form of a bill of ex- 
change, and told the servant to inform the 
sentinels that it was sent to her by the 
banker on money affairs : it was to desire 
her to come to a certain window, under 
which I should pass with the boys in a 
gondola. The servant succeeded in giv- 
ing her the paper ; and I at some distance 
saw her at the window. I advanced witli 
the gondola, and ordered the gondolier to 
stop at a certain place ; and then pointed 
to the boys, whom I desired not to speak 
a word. This excited all the violence of 



n 

a mother's feeling, at beholding her dar- 
ling children going from her. I perceived 
that she wept bitterly, and seemed much 
agitated ; and a sort of convulsive trans- 
port under which sh^ appeared to labour, 
made me apprehend other consequences 
that might serve to betray us. I there- 
fore directed the boatman to go on, thus 
breaking off this affecting scene ; and we 
proceeded to Mestre, from which place 
the children set off in a post-chaise to 
Gratz with their preceptor. 

Only twenty-four hours now^ remained 
of the time which Mrs. Smith had been 
allowed to stay at Venice. The state of 
that city, and its position, rendered her 
escape totally impossible : it being situa- 
ted in a body of water five miles broad at 
the narrowest part ; and after reaching the 
land, a space of abo\si^a hundred miles 
was to be travelled before we could get out 
of the French dominions, so that we should 
have been much exposed to detention. To 
get away by sea to Trieste was equally 
difficult, as we were subject to the punc-. 



76 

jtual visit of the guards posted at every 
outlet ; and it would have been necessary 
to secure a large boat, the master and sail- 
ors of which must in some degree know 
the secret. In short, such v/ere the ob- 
stacles, that it would have been folly to 
attempt any thing at the time ; and we 
therefore resolved on availing ourselves of 
the first opportunity during the journey, 
before we should reach the Alps. 

It was necessary that I should accom» 
pany Mrs. Smith on the road. Nothing 
could be more reasonable, than her de- 
mand that a friend might be permitted to 
travel with her ; it being very improper 
that a lady should undertake so long a 
journey in the company only ofge?isd^annes, 
without having any person to converse 
with. Mrs. Smith illustrated such an in- 
convenience in a very able letter to Mons. 
Lagarde ; intreating that he would be 
pleased to allow me to be her companion 
in the journey, at least as far as Milan. 
During my residence at Venice I had 
formed an extensive acquaintance ; and I 



- / i 

have reason to flatter myself that I had 
several friends : on this occasion they were 
not backward in giving the most satisfac- 
tory information in my behalf to Monsieur- 
Lagarde, who made some inquiries on the 
subject. 

He agreed to Mrs. Smith's demand 
without delay ; and gave me at the same 
time a passport for Milan, to take also a 
servant ; but as I did not wish any person 
with me, which might in some measure 
obstruct my plans, I sent my servant to 
Bologna immediately ; with orders to wait 
for me there (with some of my effects) 
for about a week. I next wrote to my 
parents, informing them, that as the French 
troops were in the kingdom of Naples, it 
was difficult to send letters to Sicily, and 
of course they might be some time with-. 
Qut hearing from me again. 

At eight o'clock in the evening we left 
Venice, which had been so agreeab e to 
me before, but was now grown quite 
odious. The calm surface of the water^ 

G 2 



78 

and the serene sky, seemed favourable 
omens for us. I could not refrain from 
often turning my eyes on the stupendous 
edifices of that rich and magnificent city, 
from whence I was departing perhaps nev- 
er to return. I called to mind the happi- 
ness which I had enjoyed during my stay 
there ; and from my dubious anticipations 
of futurity, my imagination fluctuated to 
the recollection of the charming amuse- 
ments of ^^enice, embellished by the pe- 
culiar hilarity and civility of the inhabi- 
tants. This is, in my opinion, by far the 
most gay and splendid city of Italy. Its 
prospect, as it retired from my sight, left 
on my mind an impression of attachment 
^\''hich can never be obliterated. 

Countess Attems, her husband, the 
prince Parr, and baron Viiletti, accom- 
panied Mrs. Smith in their gondolas as 
far as Fiisina, the first landing-place, five 
miles from Venice ; but the approach of 
niQ'ht oblis-ed them to return. The ami* 
able countess could not resolve on finally 
leaving her sister, or abandoning her ^ 



79 

victim to the sufferings that now gathered 
round her. They embraced each other : 
a thousand kisses, and promises of eternal 
affection were interchanged: they vowed 
to live under the same roof, in whatever 
place Mrs. Smith should be taken to. 
Tears were a welcome resource, sighs 
were necessary : the instant that should 
again unite them was their only consola- 
tion, and that of parting was the most 
poignant of their torments. I embraced 
my friend Villetti ; but the soldiers losing 
patience at this lengthened scene of dis- 
tress, ordered our gondoliers to put off; 
and we proceeded on our way to Padua, 
in the deepest affliction. 

We sailed up the Brenta till midnight ; 
but when we had reached Dolo, an im- 
petuous north-west gale, accompanied by 
heavy showers, stopped the course of our 
gondola. The locks which from time to 
time occur in this river being shut, we 
were obliged to wait in oiu^ frail bark, ex- 
posed to the violence of the storm, till 
day-light appeared. As we could not pro- 



80 

ceed by water to Padua, we engaged a 
vettura (or carriage), into which we had 
to admit two soldiers, under whose care 
Mrs. Smith was left : two more followed 
us on horseback. 

She had received no directions to pre- 
sent herself to the colonel of the chasseurs, 
and therefore on our arrival at Padua,, 
drove to the Paris hotel, where she re- 
mained w^ith her maid to take some rest 
after the fatigue of her journey, while I 
went to the colonel to inform him tliat \ 
was with Mrs. Smith, Count Ghizzalo^ 
the commandant of the gend^armerie^ of-^ 
fended that this prisoner had not come to 
him herself immediately, with that tribute 
of submission which he arrogantly expect- 
ed, ordered me to tell Mrs. Smith to wait 
on him before she engaged any apartment 
at the inn ; but altering his mind, he con-, 
descended to let her remain where she 
was. He asked me for what purpose I 
Was with the prisoner ; and when he un^ 
derstood that my intention was to continue 
the journey in her company as far as Mi- 



81 

Ian, he said that I should not be allowed 
to follow her farther than Padua ; as no 
person was permitted to be with prisoners 
under the vigilance of government. ** Re- 
turn to Mrs. Smith," said he, *' and in 
an hour I shall do myself the pleasure of 
calling on her." 

I went instantly to acquaint her with this 
obstacle, which threatened to prevent the 
accomplishment of our plan ; and advised 
her to write to Monsieur Lagarde, beg- 
ging that he would be pleased to authorise 
the commandant to let me continue with 
her. Count Ghizzalo came to Mrs. Smith 
soon afterwards : he expressed his dis- 
satisfaction at her neglecting to appear be- 
fore him ; and then informed her that he 
could not permit her to go forward in com- 
pany with a man whom he knew nothing 
of, and who might in some measure em- 
barrass the custody of her person ; and 
that he would not suffer it, as the strictest 
care was ordered to be taken of her. 
Mrs. Smith answered : ** This person 
w horn you know nothing of must go \yith 



8^ 

me to Milan, aecording to the orders; of 
tlie government itself, which will be full^ 
coiiiirmed,. if you write to the minister of 
the police at Venice." Ghizzaio, contra- 
ry to his wish, w^as obliged to consult the 
government, and wait for an answer, which 
detained us two daj^s at Padua. 

I endeavoured to render Mrs, Smith's 
situation here as easy as circumstances, 
and the peculiar duiness of the city, would 
admit. I introduced to her M. Bellotto, 
who politely used every attention suitable 
to a man of his excellent education, and 
eount Zigno ; and count Ghizzaio even 
permitted her to go to the theatre, follow- 
ed however by a guard ; so that this short 
stay was rarthei* agreeable than otherwise* 

At last the permission of the police at 
Venice arrived ; and we proceeded on the 
27th of April, accompanied by three gen-^ 
d^armes who were to continue all the 
journey with us. The colonel himself ac- 
companied us as far as Vicenza, and re- 
turned to Padua the next day. 



u 

One genfParme ^at with us in the car- 
iriage, and the two others followed on 
horseback. The fellow in the carriage 
wished to occupy my attention with the 
history of his crimes, which he recited as 
noble trophies of his revenge. He ap- 
peared certain of persuading me that re- 
venge was suited to the character of a 
man of feeling : that to plunge his steel 
into the body of whoever refused to agree 
to his desire, was ai act worthy of every 
lofty mind : that his fellow-creature gasp- 
ing his last from wounds inflicted by him^ 
was the most pleasing spectacle to him ; 
as it afforded him a proof of his own 
strength, and of the other's weakness : 
that the sight of blood and carnage v/as 
so habitual to him, that he could not re- 
main long without enjoying it. A legacy, 
he continued, which his brother had dis- 
puted with him, had kindled in his bosom 
the desire of murdering that brother ; 
and he expressed with the greatest energy 
how useful it would be to humanity, if he 
were only permitted to put to death all 
priests and monks. But while this wretch, 



^4 

wiio thirsted for human blood, continued 
his blustering thus, I sat deeply engaged 
in reflecting on the means of baffling his 
vigilance ; and all this stupid bravado di- 
rected of course to me, I smiled at in si- 
lent contempt. As we entered Verona in 
the evening, he pointed to a spot where 
he said he once murdered his comrade ; 
but regardless of all this, I determined 
that in this very city I would attempt Mrs* 
Smith's escape, 

1 considered this to be the fittest placCj 
as I flattered myself with the assistance of 
some friends whom I expected to meet 
here according to appointment, but I was 
unfortunately deceived, for they had set 
out the same morning for Milan. I had 
still the hope of receiving the aid of one 
of my most intimate Venetian friends, who 
was at this time to come to his country- 
house (which was only two posts from Ve- 
rona), on purpose to help me. I had im- 
parted the secret to him, and desired him 
to meet me at a certain place in Verona tliat 
night. We had agreed that Mrs. Smith, 



8^ 

t)n first escaping, was to take shelter in his 
seat, and to remain, conceaied there for a 
short time, whence, in the disguise of a 
country dress, she could have easily reach- 
ed the imperial dominions by secret paths, 
as they are at no great distance from Ve- 
rona. To settle our measures still better, 
I wrote him a few lines, and sent it by ex- 
press, desiring to receive an answer as 
quickly as possible. I told him to repair 
to Verona ; where, in the most solitary 
p-ace, he would find me exactly at mid- 
night, as he w^as already informed. 

I went punctually to the spot ; and 
there did I stand, amidst the ruins of the 
ancient amphitheatre, during a heavy 
shower of rain, even previous to the ap- 
pointed hour. At length twelve o'clock 
struck ; yet the awful silence still continu- 
ed : nor could I hear the step of any one 
approaching. After waiting some tim.e in 
vain, I ran to the post*house to inquire for 
the young man by whom I expected the 
answer ; but on passing by the Piazza dell 
Erbc, a man came up to me, and stopped 

H 



lj»e, without speaking a word. I instant* 
ly presented a loaded pistol at him, which 
caused him to take to his heels ; but not 
a syllable was uttered on either side. I 
could not imagine what this meant. The 
man had not yet returned with an answer, 
and I thought of returning to the amphi- 
theatre, in hopes that he might be waiting 
there ; but it was to no purpose. Two 
o'clock in the morning had struck, when, 
tired of lookine for him, I returned to the 
inn ; desirous to ease Mrs. Smith's mind 
from the agitation and suspense in which 
she naturally w^as, by acquainting her 
with my ill success : but her room^ was 
surrounded by the gend'cirmes, and I wjls 
denied admission to her at such an houn 

The same day, before I went to see her, 
-I tried as:ain to lea,rn scmethins^ of the 
messens'er whom I so anxiously expected. 
He at last arrived with the letter from my 
friend ; in which, after the usual silly eom- 
pliments, he expressed the impossibility 
of his combing to Verona, on account of 
business that kept \vm at home. This 



97 

Weak maM, resembling, both in character 
and principles, the generality of the in- 
habitants of that country, was terrified at 
the thought of incurring the smallest risk 
of personal danger, or exposing his inter- 
est, for the purpose of lending aid to the 
unhappy, and participating in the glorious 
claims of friendship. 

With what facility do men use the most 
generous expressions of friendship, and 
make professions of attachment ; but how 
seldom do they fulfil them ! He who de- 
clares himself a friend at the festive board, 
in assemblies of pleasure, or at the gam- 
ing-table, rarely considers himself bound 
to act as such, and hardly ever do his ac- 
tions agree with his w^ords. The answer 
of this Venetian nobleman, whom I thought 
my friend, convinced me that no further 
help could be expected than my own ; and 
even, instead of the former, I had reason 
to expect treachery. Whoever finds him- 
self incapable of conducting an enterprise- 
alone, is unworthy of success. Every 
man's best friend in the end is himself)^ 



88 

md. his best help his own sagacity and 
fortitude, when excited by a high sensq 
of honour and rectitude. 

I did not wish however that Mrs. Smith 
should remain ignorant of the truth, and 
therefore I went to shew her the letter. 
She expressed her fear that no other means 
Gould be devised for escaping ; but when^ 
I communicated to her the stratagem which 
'was to be effected that evenings, she recoV'^ 
ered her hopes again, 

I had marked a cave that was near the 
Adige, as the place in which we were to 
hide ourselves, after absconding during 
the night ; and had prepared a small post- 
chaise for our departure in the morning 
early; but the gend^armes told us that 
they wished to proceed on the journey, as 
no more than tv/o days repose v/as granted. 

That day Mrs. Smith was ill with a 
slight fever, and I vv ent in search of a phy- 
sician to testify the lady's state of healthy 
sind thus prevent her from being forced t^ 



89 

continue travelling for the day. Doctor 
Dalbene, after visiting Mrs. Smith, at- 
tested on paper the nature of her com- 
plaint, which procured us the delay of 
another day. The conversation of this 
man was of great use to us, as it prevent- 
ed us from attempting any thing at Vero- 
na, since we should have been inevitably 
stopped at the gates. I never disclosed 
any part of the secret to doctor Dalbene 
m the course of my inquiries : yet he in- 
formed us that this being a place d'armesy 
or fortified city, the gates were closed 
every night till sun-rise ; and he also in- 
formed us of the extreme caution that was 
used with regard to the passports of every 
person leaving the city. When I had first 
planned our flight by the assistance of my 
friend, I had overlooked this essential 
point : and now, perceiving the impossi- 
bility of success, I renounced every idea 
of attempting any further step at Verona ;> 
30 we departed for Brescia on the first ot 
May. 



H 2^ 



9§ 

On the road, I observed the various as.- 
pects of the country between Verona and 
Brescia : and when we drew near Peschie-- 
ra, 1 stepped out of the carriage^ on pre- 
tence of drawing; a sketch of the view of 
the lake di Garde ; but in reality for the 
purpose of obtaining information respect- 
ing the different interiour roads thereabout,, 
as I conjectured that from thence to the 
confines of the Tyrol the distance was in- 
considerable. I made several inquiries on 
this subject, and discovered the different 
roads : I found that Feschiera was so sit- 
uated as to oblige us to pass Brescia on 
our way to Riva, the nearest village to the 
Tyrolese confines. I continued my way 
on foot ; inquiring which was the nearest 
place to Brescia, and the most convenient 
for passing the lake ; and was in general 
answered Said, it being the least distant 
from Brescia and nearest to the Tyrol. 
Thus instructed, I returned to the car- 
riage ; and shewed Mrs. Smith, in the 
presence of the soldier, my drawing of the 
fortress of Peschiera, and of the adjoining- 
hill by which it was shaded. 



9£ 

Count Attems had promised to overtake 
us at Milan, and go with Mrs. Smith to 
Valenciennes. This gentleman however, 
came up with us a little before we reached 
Brescia, having obtained leave from colonel 
Ghizzola to follow Mrs. Smith. We 
were cautious in keeping our secret from 
count Attems ; as we reflected on the dan- 
ger of his person, the tranquillity of his 
family, and the probable confiscation of 
his property by the government ; but at 
the same time we intended to prevent his 
situation from being such as might raise 
suspicions of his concern in the plot. 

r The same day (the first of May) wc 
entered Brescia ; where I had irrevocably 
determined to execute Mrs. Smith's de- 
liverance (it being the nearest place to a 
neutral territory), and to fly from the do- 
minions of the new Icing of Italy, For 
this purpose, before engaging the inn at 
which she was to rest the two days allow- 
ed, I ran to examine the windows of the 
different inns, and see- of what height they 
were from .the ground; but they all re-» 



92 

sembled each other so much in constmc- 
tion and elevation, that we remained a^ 
the one at which we had stopped with the 
gend^armes. A room was"" appointed foi? 
Mrs. Smiih, fifty feet from the ground ; 
the gendhirmes took the room adjoining to 
her's, leaving the corresponding door half 
open, according to their custom ; count 
Attems had the room beyond the soldiery^ 
so that all secret communication between 
him and. his sister-in-law was precluded ;, 
and I contented myself with a mean apart- . 
ment in another part of the house. 

The lateness of the hour at which we 
arrived,, and the presence of the count, 
who had brought many letters for Mrs.. 
Smith, prevented me from concerting with, 
her the measures to be adopted. I wish- 
ed to visit Salo, and examine its position, 
and police ;. and also to obtain information; 
of the rules observed at the gatqs of Bres-. 
cia in passing.: For this purpose, and- 
while the police of Brescia yet remained, 
ignorant of my arrival with Mrs. Smith,, 
I went early the next morning to get my- 



93 

passport . signed for Tyrol. I wished t^ 
have, it done for Vienna ; but this was im* 
possible, as it had been made out for Mi* 
km at Venice. From the police I hasten- 
ed to observe the outlets of the city, ancj 
discover the easiest way of getting away ; 
but, to my sorrow, I could see no other 
passage than througli the gates, which 
were all strongly guarded. I next set 
about providing a light carriage, in order 
to be always furnished with a vehicle ; and 
also obtaining horses, so that we might 
be able to avoid waiting at the post-houses, 
where we might possibly be in danger of 
being surprised. . } was"^ not abk to find 
either the horses or carriage so soon as I 
v/anted them ; however, as I never allow- 
ed any accident to depress me, or destroy 
my determinations, I considered them as 
only useful, but by no means indispens*. 
able. I employed the short remaining 
part of th^ morning (before the gend'^armes 
were likely to look after me), in obtaining 
a bill of health at the office, which would 
be necessary on entering another country, 
I next went in search of a man's dress for 



m 

the disguise of Mrs. Smith. All this I 
accomplished before ten o'clock in the 
forenoon ; when I went to see her, ancj 
found her alone. I shewed her the pass- 
port signed for Trent, and the bill of 
health ; and told her that I had in my pos- 
session the clothes with which she was to 
disguise herself as a man. On my produ- 
cing these to her, she was at once forcibly 
struck with the dangers that were to be 
encountered : and the idea of attempting 
a task so extremely arduous, threw her 
for the first time into an apparent alarm, 
leaving her no resource but the mere d.e- 
aire of obtaining liberty. 

Being fixed in my resolution, however, 
I could perceive nothing but the glorj?^ 
that shone before me, and guided my steps ? 
and I accordingly availed myself of the 
hour while the soldiers were at the street 
door, to settle with her all that was to be 
prepared and attempted. I told her that I 
should go during the night to reconnoitre 
the environs of Brescia and the town of 
Salo, that I would examine whatever ob-^ 



^5 



Macles might occur likely to occasion a siir-^ 
prise on our outset ; and that I would ac- 
quaint her, and at least prevent every sus- 
picion : that I would investigate the im* 
pediments likely to happen in the Tyrol, 
and endeavour to counteract them : in 
short, that I would collect all the informa^ 
tion possible respecting the places through 
which we vvere to pass^ ensure our pas- 
sage through the gates of Brescia, fix oil 
each station, and contrive infallible meas- 
ures for eluding the vigilance of every fe- 
rocious Argus, however attentive. 1 re- 
minded her of the importance of conceal- 
ing the secret from the count. Her mind, 
notwithstanding, still laboured under the 
notion that I stood exposed on the brink 
of a precipice. At every proposal to re^ 
lieve her, she seemed to forget her own 
situation : and tried to dissuade me from 
the attempt of a scheme pregnant with 
great danger to my life and liberty, and 
grief to my parents ; telling me that the 
least punishment w4iich I should meet 
would be imprisonment for the most prc^ 
cious years of my youth. She finished by 



exhorting rne to continue my joiii^ney to 
Milan. In: reply, I. used but few argu- 
ments to convince her, that all she could 
say was insufficient to change my resolu- 
tion ; but I sincerely admired her delicacy, 
and her sentiments concerning the possible 
consequences. 

She thought she perceived the will of 
Providence in my determination to save 
her : and regarded me as the friend who 
was to break her chains ; and to guide her 
to a husband, to her children, and relatives- 
She therefore confided herself to my care : 
she agreed to follow up all my steps ; and 
overcome, as far as she was able, every 
impediment. I could hot however depart 
from her, and go avv^ay alone, without ac- 
quainting the gencVarmes^ to whose vigi- 
lance I was in some degree entrusted, with 
instructions, stating that I Was to accom- 
pany her to Milan. 

Nothing was more easy than to obtain 
from the soldiers permission to leave her, 
as a stranger's presence incommoded them } 



^7 

besides the incessant watch they kept over 
him, the orders of the government relative 
to the lady being extremely rigid in every 
respect. On quitting Mrs. Smith, I told 
the guards that my affairs prevented me 
from continuing any longer in the company 
of this woman : that the slow manner in 
which she travelled, staying so long at ev- 
ery place, greatly retarded my journey : 
that I had to go to Paris with all possible 
dispatch : and besides (flattering them by 
apparent confidence), I assured them that 
it was disagreeable to mc to continue any 
longer with a prisoner ; nor did I like to 
expose my conduct to the stigm.a of being 
the friend of a woman whose arrest was 
demanded by the emperour of the French. 
I added, that for this last reason in partic> 
ular, I did not wish to go to Milan with 
her, and desired that very evening to de- 
part from Brescia ; adding, that as I did 
not like to tell the lady that such was my 
intention, I begged as a favour that they 
would have the goodness to inform her of 
it themselves. The fierce-looking senti- 
nels murmured their opinions to one 

r 



9g 

another, and turning to me in a fi iendly 
tone, advised me to leave her, promising 
that they would acquaint her punctually* 
Count Attems afterwards, on hearing that 
I had left them without saying a vvord to 
him, was astonished, as much friendship 
had always existed between us. 

I hired a horse and small chaise for a 
couple of days, agreeing to leave them at 
Sal >, to a Vettiirhio of which place, named 
Silvestro, the chaise belonged. After this 
I concealed myself in the most solitary 
part of the city, to avoid suspicion. Count 
Ghizzalo (brother to the colonel of that 
name), to whom Mrs. Smith was directed 
at Brescia^ endeavoured very politely to 
render her short stay there agreeable, and 
offered to accompany her himself, with 
the gendhvines, to the theatre. I was to 
set out that night, but wished first to have 
a few more explanations with Mrs. Smith, 
I wanted to instruct her how she was to 
be sure of my secret return to Brescia^ 
and to act so precisely as might preclude 
eyery possibility of surprise. 



99 

The better to conceal every appearance 
of our project, I went to the theatre with 
her ; in the view likewise of finding, after 
our return, a favourable moment for speak* 
ing to her alone. I reflected that this 
would be our last interview if my eftbrts 
should fail : it was at such a crisis that 
she had to rely on her own courage and 
presence of mind, while irresolution or 
delay might prove fatal ; fear was to be 
avoided, and every weakness to be set 
aside. At twelve o'clock at night, after 
our return from the theatre, we endeav- 
oured to send every one away, and fortu- 
nately were left alone. " This is the last- 
time," said I, ^' that we are to speak to- 
gether. I now depart, nor am I to see you 
again but out of these walls, where you 
are closely guarded. I can no longer visit 
the room where you are a prisoner, and 
I am no further to continue a witness of 
your all-fated journey. Should my mo- 
tions be traced by the subtle traitor ; or, 
on my return, should I be surprised at ' 
the gates, or when I am near the inn ; — 
then if my evil destiny becomes known 



100 

to you, be sure to deny that you were in 
any manner concerned in my schemes. 
Say that you had never discovered in me 
the least inclination to relieve you : com- 
plain of my conduct which occasioned the 
suspicion of the government; and repre- 
sent in the harshest terms, to the officers 
who may suppose you concerned, the im* 
prudei;ice of my character : appear amazed 
at what I dared to attempt, curse the day 
that I came with you from Venice, and 
shew the greatest willingness to pursue 
your journey. Thus these enemies will 
not vent their rage upon you ; it will fall 
on my head, who am better able to bear 
it. They will be satisfied by punishing 
him who will repeat in the hour of torment, 
his constant desire, his duty as a man, to 
save you. But if I succeed in eluding 
their attention :-^if, happy in the lonely 
silence of night, to-morrow I regain these 
walls : and in darkness accost this house 
unnoticed by any person, while you in this 
chamber anticipate my steps in your mind: 
-r— then, at eleven o'clock, free from the in- 
trusion of others, do you let down a string 



101 

from the window to the ground, to which 
1 will tie a paper that shall convey all that 
I may have discovered and prepared, and 
what I shall have resolved upon. I shall 
mention the precise time for the attempt, 
the plan to be followed, and the measures 
conducive for ensuring a happy issue. I 
shall not conceal from you the impediments 
that may strike me as likely to obstruct us: 
do not fear that 1 shall betray you and my- 
self, if it is impossible to escape. In short, 
you shall read what you have to perform : 
you will then consider how much you have 
to undertake, and how you are to accom- 
pany me. If you should deem your cham- 
bermaid an object of hindrance to you, or 
consider her capable of betraying us at 
such a juncture, let her drink be cautious- 
ly mixed widi some narcot ck, that may 
lay her to sleep. Take leave of your 
brother only in thought, and beware of 
speaking a word that may lead him to ap- 
prehend what you are about to do : let no 
involuntary impulse of nature expose you, 
but reflect on what is to be done. Avoid 
all confusion and agitation as much as pos-- 

I 2 



102 

sible : let the idea of sacred liberty shield 
you from anxiety ; let the fond hope of 
seeing your children and relatives once 
more, animate you in the trial : be certain 
of a happy result, and reject every perni- 
cious doubt." 

Her mind was strengthened i her cour-^ 
age supported her amply, and all her ac- 
cents tended to convince me of the forti- 
tude of her character. I glowed with rap-^ 
ture at seeing her equal to the imminence 
of the risk : her sentiments stimulated me 
not to make the least further delay, and I 
immediately took my leave of her. 

At four o'clock in the morning I passed 
the gates of Brescia, and directed my steps 
to Sal 6. I viewed the surrounding hills 
and the chain of mountains along the road : 
open cavities and recesses proper for shel- 
tering the forlorn fugitive, drew my atten- 
tion ; these I strictly inspected ; determin- 
ing, in case circumstances should turn out 
unfortunate, and the soldiers should be in 
pursuit of us, we would hide oiu'selvea 



103 

there till the danger in some degree sub- 
sided. The prospect of the country was 
delightful, and the silence and solitude, so 
congenial to my situation, that reigned 
throughout the scene, seemed to prognos- 
ticate that the path which I then trod was 
the least replete with danger. 

On my arrival at Salo, no officer appear- 
ed at the gate to demand my passport ; 
nor did I perceive any crowd of idle gazers 
gathering about my chaise to look at the 
stranger, as is the custom in the small 
towns and villages of Italy. This made 
me hope that I should be able to pass 
through this place with eas€ ; as such cu- 
riosity, besides being troublesome, might 
to people in our situation (who have every 
thing to apprehend) turn out fatal, I vis- 
ited the village ; and perceiving no sign of 
a military force, I resolved with pleasure 
to come this way. I applied to the police, 
to have my passport signed for Trent ; 
saying that I wished to get it done the 
day before, as I intended to come the foU 
lowing morning very early. I then has-* 



104 

tened to the borders of the lake di Garde ; 
where 1 engaged a covered boat with 
twelve oars, to be ready the next.mornmg 
at six o'clock for passing the lake with all 
expedition. I feared, and justly, that on 
landing on the other sidfe of the lake, we 
might not be able to find either horses or 
carriage, and thus be obliged to go as far 
as Roveredo on foot ; and as in such a 
case we should be exposed to the greatest 
danger of being overtaken, I resolved on 
hiring a carriage and horses at Salo to car- 
ry us to Trent. I settled for another boat 
(to convey the carriage, Sec. across the 
lake to Riva, the landing-place), which 
was to follow the course of ours.. 

At eleven o'clock in the forenoon, noth- 
ing remained further to prepare at Salo, 
but asi 1 could not well return to Brescia 
before the evening, so I was obliged to 
wait at Salo till eight o'clock, at the house 
of Silvestro, to whom the chaise belong- 
ed. I sat reflecting on the perilous mo- 
ment of Mrs. Smith's escape from the 
room. In this first, this difficult step to* 



105 

wards her freedom, I considered the ex- 
treme danger of her leaping from a win- 
dow at such a great height ; and to get 
avv^ay hy any door of the inn was totally 
impossible. I therefore studied how I 
couid make a ladder of rope and pieces of 
wood : and though I never had any taste 
for mechanicks, I bought the necessary 
materials, and succeeded in making one as 
long as I thought would be required. 
When. this important implement was fin- 
ished, I wrote the letter, in which I in^ 
formed her minutely of what I had pre- 
pared, and what I had discovered : assur- 
ihg her that we had no prominent obstacle 
to fear in our flight. I told her of the lad- 
der, which she was to tie to the iron of 
the window ; and that by two o'clock in 
the morning I would be under the window, 
waiting for her : that she must avail her- 
self of the time when the guards were all 
fast asleep, for descending ; but to wait 
first for a signal from me, which would 
assure her that no body was in sight : for 
if persons passed at the time, it might 
frustrate all our operations, and perhaps 



betray us. I concluded by exhorting her 
not to hesitate an instant in exposing her 
life thus, to recover her freedom ; rather 
than submit herself a victim to a cruel 
captivity, 

I left Salo when the sun had sunk below 
the horizon, and in repassing the hills^ 
the hope of seeing them again the next 
morning, and the fear of never returning 
that way, agitated me extremely. One 
moment I was overjoyed with the idea that 
perhaps within a few hours, I should there 
sing my first hymn to newly recovered lib>. 
erty, in company with the unhappy fugi- 
tive ; and at an other I was filled with the 
apprehension of being surprised there by 
the gend* arjnes : my imagination some- 
times anticipated the most favourable night 
for the accomplishment of our design ; 
and soon after figured some person observe 
ing our motions, then our discovery, my 
seizure, bloodshed, Mrs. Smith's dread ; 
in short, the most cruel terrours. These 
images were heightened by the darkness 
that enveloped every object* 



107 

As I drew near the walls of Brescia, I 
could not help considering them as about 
to be those of my prison. I entered the 
very instant of shutting the gates. I left 
the horse and chaise at an inn situited in 
a solitary square on the left, telling the 
ostler that I would return by three o'clock 
in the morning. 

It was near eleven o'clock, when drest 
as a Brescian postilion, and with the rope- 
ladder and letter under my cloak, I ad- 
vanced through the most lonely streets, 
towards the inn called the Two Towers, 
where Mrs. Smith w^as. A high wind 
which thickened the atmosphere with 
clouds of dust, had caused the inhabitants 
to retire into coffee-houses and the theatre, 
leaving the city quite deserted even at that 
hour. Being apprehensive that the ge?!- 
d^armes, or ethers on the watch, miglit 
observe me from the inn, I stopped before I 
approached to the window : I ii-.tened for 
some time to the ncise of the soldiers ; 
and after convincing myself that they were 
occupied in djinking, I diew near, and 



i08 

felt for tlie string with my hand. Having 
found it, I tied the ladder and letter to it ; 
and on my pulling gently, she drew up the 
parcel. I then retired, overjoyed at see- 
ing the first danger so well got over. 

I had to wait three hours before I was to 
return under the window ; and in the mean 
time, being in want of some nourishment, 
I entered a mean tavern in a remote corner 
of the town, mixing with people of the 
lowest description. Here I satisfied my 
hunger, and rested myself. I then went 
to a coffee-house near the Ghetto (or resi- 
dence of the Jews), where I waited till one 
o'clock. After this, in order to ascertain 
whether ail was quiet, and the people re- 
tired to their homes, I went toward the 
theatre. On my way, I perceived several 
coffee-houses full of officers and citizens : 
and passed by other places of resort full 
of the dissolute rabble [or canaglia) with 
which this city particularly abounds ; for 
as it is near the confines of the Tyrol and 
the mountains of Switzerland, the Bres- 
ciaus easily find an asylum in those situa- 



109 

tions for their frequent crimes of murder' 
and robbery. I could not therefore be too 
cautious among such people, from whom 
I had every evil to apprehend. Though I 
found myself quite alone in the publick 
places, and the awful silence was unin- 
terrupted by the step or voice of any hu- 
man being, I often stopped to listen 
whether any body was advancing towards 
or following me, and to observe vvhether 
any one stood watching me, but I perceiv- 
ed nothing to alarm me, so therefore pro- 
ceeded to the imi with an easy and careful 
pace. 

Two o'clock now struck ; and the hour 
in which our destiny was to be fixed) call- 
ed me to action. My mind suffered that 
insurmountable agitation which frequent- 
ly accompanies any hazardous enterprise 
Vherein our life and liberty are eminently 
exposed. I hurried on, alm.ost heedlessly, 
till I was opposite the window ; impatient 
to carry the prisoner from those walls 
where I im.agined she stood trembhng at 
my delay, and eager for my friendly assist- 

K 



110 

ance. 1 stood under the window confused 
and absent in mind, but ready to speak to 
her, to assure her of my presence, to call 
her. I suddenly discovered, notwith^ 
standing the darkness of the night, that 
the windows of her room were still shut* 
On this I stood motionless, but continued 
to fix my eyes on them, when I was struck 
with terrour at perceiving the window of 
the room occupied by the gend'armes wide 
open. I heard the voice of one of them, 
and was afraid they watched us. I shud- 
dered at the idea that ail was divulged ; 
that they knew of the ladder which I had 
tied to the string, and were only waiting 
for the critical moment, to exert their fury 
upon us. I suspected that they might 
have seen the clothes for their captive's 
disguise. I feared that the chambermaid 
might have betrayed us ; or that perhaps 
some person had followed me the day be- 
fore, as a spy on my actions : In short, I 
firmly believed that they stood ready to as- 
suage their thirst of blood on me for da* 
ring to deceive them^ 



Ill 

This cruel state of doubt, suspense, and 
terrouf, gave way however to my anxiety 
for Mrs, Smith's situation. I could never 
once suppose her capable of having relin- 
quished the attempt, for I was convinced 
of her fortitude ; nor think her so thought- 
less as to have allowed any thing to tran- 
spire or appear, capable of exciting the 
suspicion of the guards. I could not guess 
therefore what prevented her from shew- 
ing herself at the vv'indow at the appoint* 
ed time. 

I summoned up my spirits, though the 
windows of the soldiers' room continued 
open ; and though conscious of the effects 
of their revenge if I were once discover- 
ed, I stood collected in the face of danger, 
and grasped my pistols. Vain resource ! 
What defence could these arms make 
while such im.plements of death as French 
bayonets threatened me ? Culpable in the 
eyes of government, opposition would on- 
ly have accelerated my -f Jl. I w^as the 
projector of a flight which, if successful, 
would not only have involved the guards 



to whom the custody of the prisoner was- 
entrusted, but also the government itself 
for neglecting the adequate means of se- 
iEuring her : I could therefore expect no 
trial by law, as the remissness of the 
guards would appear ; and must evidently 
have been sacrificed that instant to preclude 
aa exposure of circumstances. 

. As I retired a few paces from the spol 
after waiting so long, I perceived a maa 
approaching the fountain that was close at 
liand : he stood nigh a door, which I saw 
him enter slowly ; but at that instant my 
eyes caught the opening window of Mrs* 
Smith's chamber, at which a figure pre- 
sented itself : I could have no doubt of its 
being her ; and after looking round to see 
whether all was safe, I drew near : but she 
being ignorant of the disguise which I 
wore, asked in a low voice if it was I. 
I replied, " I am that h^iend, and wait for 
you." I now resumed my hopes that ev- 
ery thing was unknown to the guards, and 
that no fatal occurrence would ensue du- 
ring the critical moment. She continued 



113 

however in the room ; and I stood unable 
to breathe, for fear of some hidden wit- 
ness of the scene, ready, perhaps to sound 
the alarm, and call the patrole of the city. 
I earnestly wished to remind her of the 
pressing danger incident to every mo- 
ment's delay ; but I heard a noise proceed 
from the window, which was occasioned 
by her tying the end of the ladder to the 
iron : my terrour increased at this unwel- 
come sound ; I thought it, above all others, 
the most likely to rouse the soldiers, and 
occasion the worst of disasters. Scarcely 
did the ladder appear to be fastened, when 
I saw Mrs. Smith take hold of the win- 
dow and cling to the wall, pressing witK 
her uncertain foot the first step. I perceiv- 
ed she was reluctant in trusting herself 
upon it : the unhappy lady stood tottering 
upon the step ; and seemed to tremble so 
much, that I was' under the necessity of 
attending particularly to her, fearing that 
she might fall. But I was agreeably de- 
ceived when I beheld her grasping the 
knots of the ladder, and boldly determin* 
ed to descend. What an interesting spec^ 

K 2 



114 

tacle ! a forlorn woman, anxious to escape 
from captivity, committing herself from 
a height to ropes which, even while they 
tore her delicate fingers, she kissed in ex- 
tacy, because they were instrumental to 
her release : and at the same moment 
armed sentinels in the adjoining apartment, 
who were ready to dart upon her if their 
sleep were interrupted by the least noise. 
Had they nov/ come to their own window, 
she would have been discovered on the 
ladder, myself below waiting to lead her 
off, and the maid above accessary to the 
bold attempt of her mistress. What a 
field for their vengeance ! What victims 
for their fury ! Happily, however, the si» 
lence of the night, and its intense gloom, 
remained undisturbed : she reached the 
ground without receiving any essential in- 
jury ; and the maid, to Vvhom the secret 
had been imparted, threw a bundle from 
the vv'indow, containing w^hatever could be 
saved. 

We instantly began our flight ; running 
along unknown streets, without meeting 



115 

any person. Our trepidation — the haste 
with which we went, and our mean dress, 
would have been strong unfavourable in- 
dications if we had been observed. From 
solitary street to street we precipitated our 
steps till we reached the summit of the 
fortress of Brescia. Here the violence of 
my companion's desire to save herself was 
such, that she actually offered to attempt 
scaling the walls ; but on my acquainting 
her that the chaise was ready for us at the 
tavern near the gates, she followed me 
with less agitation. 

The ostler, seeing me return in compa- 
ny with a youth (whom, by the by, it was 
not difficult to mistake for a woman), 
gazed at us with surprise ; and appeared 
to. suspect something uncommon and mys- 
terious. We had still to wait another hour 
before we could set off, as the gates were 
never opened before four o'clock. This 
protraction of our anxiety was almost 
enough to extinguish every ray of hope : 
we continually expected the arrival of the 
gend^armes : and could hardly help ima- 



116 

gining that the stable had been discovered 
to be the place where we had taken re- 
fuge ; and that the alarm of our escape 
must by this time have spread to e very- 
part of the city, and our retreat be con- 
sequently cut off. The ostler, perceiving 
our perturbation and impatience, went to 
see whether the passage was free ; he soon 
returned with the happy intelligence that 
the guards had come to the gates, and we 
might depart. Still, however, for our fur- 
ther alarm, we found them shut ; but on 
our entreaties, the guard opened them ; 
and we passed through on the 3d day of 
May, at four o'clock in the morning. 

The beauteous skv seemed to welcome 
our escape with its smiles : the mighty 
orb of light shot forth its beams from be- 
low the horizon with uncommon - splen- 
dour — and appeared to transfuse universal 
joy. With what happiness did I view the 
places which a few hours before had filled 
me with terrour ! Our pleasure was ex- 
treme in passing the hills free from the gal- 
ling incumbrance of gend^armes* What 



117 

>Vere our transports in scouring the path 
by ourselves, unobserved by the eyes of 
treachery, and breathing the balmy air of 
liberty ! To have overcome the principal 
dangers, — and to have broken from the 
walls which the grim satellites of govern- 
ment stood guarding, — to have succeeded 
thus far, — caused our apprehensions to 
subside. We looked back on the odious 
city, while we continued to hurry on to- 
ward the land of freedom. 

We reached Salo at half an hour after 
six, the same morning; yet here, though 
all was ready, we had to wait at the house 
of the worthy Silvestro till the boatmen 
should call us to pass the lake. Every 
moment of this delay was almost msup- 
portable ; even the velocity of wrings could 
have scarcely satisfied our impatience ; but 
it was out of our power to advance with 
more celerity ; and w^e were obliged to 
submit, though we were but too sensible 
that time was flying fast. At eight o'clock 
we unfurled our sails, agreeably certain 
that none of the idlers ^vho stood gazing 



118 

at us knew any thing of our escape. With 
what satisfaction did we abandon that 
place, to us the last under French domina- 
tion ! Siivestro and his family, from the 
beach, wished us a happy journey ; and 
we returned the salute by signs expressing 
our hearty desire never to return. 

The wiiid was against us, and the gon- 
doliers found much difficulty in proceed- 
ing. The prospect of the surrounding 
country drew our attention ; and the sin- 
gular positions of several of the villages, 
as Tremogine and Melesina, were very in- 
teresting. The variegated appearance of 
the numberless orchards and cottages 
along the shore of Carignano, charmed us 
as much Sls Cur situation could permit. 
During our passage I told Mrs, Smith all 
that I had seen and perfornied since I had 
left her ; and she informed me of the 
means which she had used to gain her 
chambermaid— and of her astonishment 
at finding the ladder prepared. I asked 
her why she had staid till three o'clock be- 
fore she descended; to which she replied 



119 

that On0 of the gend^armes was awake i 
and that she was writing a letter to the 
colonel of the gend^armerie, begging par- 
don for her conduct, and exculpating the 
guards as well as count Attems from any 
sliare in what she had done ; and another 
to the count, explaining her reasons for 
not having imparted the secret to him. 

We calculated that the guards would 
have discovered our escape by eight 
o'clock, the hour at which we had left Sa- 
le. We were anxious, of course, to reach 
Riva, and proceed thence instantly ; as 
any delay would have been still very dan- 
gerous, considering (as we did) the wide- 
extended influence of the French. At 
length we arrived at the Tyrolese frontier, 
after a passage of eight hours. I ran to 
present my bill of health, which was sign- 
ed without hesitation for Trent : but the 
boat that carried our chaise and horses had 
not yet come over ; so we were obliged to 
wait at the only tavern there, which stood 
near the lake. I could not suppress my 



12D 

impfecations at this delay, while eVeiy m^^ 
ment was so precious. 

At five o'clock we perceived no less 
than three boats coming toward us. It was 
natural for us to suppose that the gen- 
d^armes were on board some of them in 
pursuit of us, and that the police might 
have discovered the road which we had 
taken ; but where could we now hide our- 
selves, or whither direct our flight ? At 
Riva there was neither carriage, horses, 
nor post ; and we should have certainly 
been traced within an hour, for the inhab- 
itants would have pointed out the way to 
our pursuers. I wished to conceal my 
suspicions from Mrs. Smith, yet I reject- 
ed that it was best to prepare her for the 
evils that might ensue. Her courage never 
forsook her a single instant : she proposed 
we should hide ourselves in the cavity of 
a mountain at hand, and continue cur 
journey on foot ; but the boat v/ith our 
chaise and horses reached the shore some 
time before the others. Without losing a 
moment, we set off for Trent with all the 



121 

speed that spur and lasli could produce ; 
nor could we learn who were in the other 
boats : the people, however, who seemed 
to feel for our agitation, assured us that 
they did not come from Salo. 

We could never have supposed that we 
should be obliged to ily, even from Trent 
by a necessity as urgent as the former. 
The post-master could not supply any 
stranger with horses without orders from 
the director of the police, whose signature 
was also to be put to the passport. My 
pass was for Trent only, so of course I 
had to request a fresh one for the continu- 
ance of my journey : the director however 
of the police not only refused to sign the 
pass made out at Brescia, but, on observ- 
ing in it the last letter of the word came- 
riere (signifying 2i footman) substituted by 
an a (making a chambermaid)^ he remark- 
ed that suspicious people like me ought 
not to have the boldness to present them- 
selves at his tribunal ; and that instead of 
allowing me to proceed to Germany, he 
Avould direct me back to Italy, adding that 



12^ 

I must not stay in Trent. In vain did I 
insist on his giving reasons for such con- 
duct : my endeavours were useless to per^ 
suade him that my character in no way 
was liable to blame for having a servant- 
woman instead of a man^ and that such 
trifles could not deserve the notice of gov- 
ernment : Every argument was ineffectual 
with this obdurate Bavarian ; who imme- 
diately ordered that no horses should be 
given to me, except to go back to Italy* 

In returning to the inn, the servant that 
accompanied xvxQ gave a strange character 
of this man, and promised to adopt any 
method which should suggest to elude his 
prohibition. I was far from trusting him, 
considering of what serious consequence 
deception would still be to us. To return 
to Italy, however, would have been to 
throw ourselves into the hands of the en- 
emy. Some road must be devised by 
which we could travel in the Tyrol after 
quitting Trent, without the danger of be- 
ing taken by the gencParines^ who probably 
were stili in quest ct us. For this pur^ 



123 

pose no better way appeared to us than to 
leave the city at night, and take the secret 
road below the castle. Having resolved to 
follow this plan I went to the inn, where 
I found Mrs. Smith at table, taking some 
refreshment after her severe fatigues. 
Without speaking to her, I told the inn- 
keeper to prepare some eggs and roast 
meat ; and on her asking me for what pur- 
pose, I remarked that she as a servant had 
nothing to do with my orders. As soon 
as we were alone, I told her that there 
were no hopes of escaping but by 
walking through the defiles of the sur- 
rounding mountains ; and though she was 
almost overcome by the agitation and fa- 
tigues of the preceding night, she did not 
hesitate a moment in embracing the propo- 
sal, and exposing herself to n£W hardships. 
Her bad health rendered such an under- 
taking almost impracticable,— but absolute 
necessity forced us to it. 

As we were on the stairs in our way out, 
the innkeeper expressed a wish to be of 
service to us, whom he thought enibar- 



124 

rasscd, as we had to perform the journey 
©n foot, as far at least as the first village^ 
where we heard that horses might be easi* 
ly found. He offered to sell us a country- 
man's small vehicle for one horse, for 
thirty-two loiiis^ which he observed, after 
W^e had used it, we could sell at any vil- 
lage thereabout. Our joy was extreme 
on being thus relieved, and we paid the 
thirty-two louts without hesitation : we 
then hastened from that place, as well as 
from the evil destiny that still hovered 
xound us. But how could we expect to 
#scape the vigilance of the sentinels, or 
persons belonging to the police, at the 
gates, probably sent on purpose to arrest 
us. I reflected on this, and imagined that 
a guide would be useful in leading us the 
safest way out. The innkeeper accord- 
ingly sent a man with us at our desire^ 
who preceded our steps for about a league,, 
knd thus eased us of much embarrass- 
ment. 

At midnight we parted with our guide^ 
and fouiid ourselves alone in a path utterly 



125 

unknown to me. Mrs. Smith was seated 
in the chaise, exposed to all the rigour of 
the atmosphere ; she was however drest 
in woollen clothes, and I sat before her, 
driving. Sleep, to which we had been en- 
tire strangers for two successive nights, 
weighed down our eyelids forcibly ; but 
the sense of our extreme danger, which 
still continued, was superiour to our want 
of that refreshment. 

We arrived at a village where, though 
it was still dark, we found a post-horse, 
and a young man for the purpose of driv- 
ing us till day-break, and by this means 
I was enabled to avail myself of a few 
hours uneasy rest, I afterwards reassumed 
my office of postilion, directing our way 
toward Batzen with our usual speed. We 
suddenly heard the noise of a carriage 
advancing upon us. Our delay at Riva 
and Trent afforded sufficient time to the 
officers of government for overtciking us : 
at such a juncture nq other supposition 
could find a place in our minds, and every 
thought anticipated our arrest by ihe geU". 

L 2 



126 

cParmeSj presuming that it was they who 
now drove so hard to come up with us. 
No refuge remained but to hide ourselves. 
On our left there ran a torrent, at the foot 
of the mountain, and on the right was a 
thick wood : through the thorny windings 
of this, and without the guidance of any 
track, 1 led the horse for some distance, 
and when surrounded by bushes and trees^ 
we stopped till the carriage passed. 

To return now to the road would have 
been imprudent ; therefore after lead- 
ing the horse with the greatest difficulty 
over the rugged heights, and arriving at 
the bottom of the mountain, we proposed 
resting ourselves here for a short time. 
We inquired of the people at a cottage, 
which was the way to pass the chain of 
mountains, and go to Styria, to which a 
woman, of whom Mrs, Smith begged a 
room to repose for a few hours, replied,, 
that being then alone in the house, she 
could not dispose of the rooms without 
her husband's leave. Like a true woman, 
however, she was soon touched with com- 



127 

passion at our words and situation, and 
permitted us to take some sleep, which 
was become so urgent a want, that we con- 
fided ourselves to her without any suspi- 
cion of danger. Indeed who could hrive 
entertained an idea that people thus unex- 
posed to any incitements towaixl crime, 
would have been capable of denouncing 
us, and displaying a satisfaction in procur- 
ing our arrest, in the very place granted 
to us as an asylum, merely because we had 
in some degree a strange appearance ? The 
husband, on coming home, and being in- 
formed by his wife that she had two stran- 
gers, soon came to the rooms in which we 
w^ere, and disturbed us : he asked us how 
we could have thought of coming to such 
a remote place to which there was no path, 
and then told us to be gone immediately. 
While I was getting the horse ready, he 
locked up our few effects in a room, and 
hastened to the neighbouring village to ac- 
cuse us. But we were not so unfortunate 
as to fall a sacrifice to this wretch's perfidy. 
The good woman, struck with horrour at 
such a violation of the sacred laws of hos- 



128 

pitality, ran after him, and entreated hitxi 
to desistj adding, that these poor people 
had trusted themselves to her : her words 
soothed him, and he gave .us back our 
clothes and trinkets ; telling us however 
not to stay any longer. Thus we were 
obliged to set out for Batzen ; but bein^ 
apprehensive that the people in the carriage 
which had passed, might be waiting for 
us at that place, we wished to avoid enter-, 
ing the gates : therefore we drove by the 
suburbs as fast as the horsq could gallop,. 
On our way to Brixen, 

Towards the evening we met a waggon^ 
on which there were several French cuiras-. 
siers ; but as they were ignorant^ of our 
case, they only laughed at our mean equip- 
age. We crossed the Tyrolian mountains 
with our usual celerity, without stopping 
either night or day ; nor did we allow our- 
selves that repose which our fatigue ur- 
gently called for. The scorching rays of 
the sun incommoded us by day ; and af- 
ter its setting, the keenness of the air: and 
t^e were obliged to pursue our way during 



129 

the night through the craggy valleys near 
the Brinner, Schoenberg, and Inspruck, 
though I was entirely unacquamted with 
the road. How often were we under the 
necessity of descending and leading the 
horse, to avoid the dangerous fragments 
of the mountains ! The poor animal was 
very much exhausted, having travelled all 
day through the most fatiguing paths, but 
seemed sensible of his utility to us, and 
never once slackened his pace till he had 
©arried us to a land of security. 

The people of the Tyrol are of an un- 
couth and stubborn cast of mind : they 
possess so small a share of humanity of 
hospitality, that exclusive of our fears 
arising from a knowledge of their depend- 
ence on Bavaria, and their connections 
with the French, we were desirous of 
quitting their country, and not to expose 
ourselves long to their ill-treatment and 
extortion. As we approached the extrem- 
ity of the Tyrol, we were accosted in % 
wood about noon by a man dressed in a 
soldier's uniform, who, drawing his sword^ 



139 

desired us in a threatening tone to lend 
him some money. My situation was such, 
that I could not possibly perceive what 
went on, nor abandon the horse, but Mrs. 
Smith snatched the loaded pistols that we 
had with us, and answered his menace by 
presenting one of them at him. This 
made the fellow step back instantly, and 
renounce his plan of robbing ; leaving us 
to proceed towards the Saltzburghese ter« 
ritory. We knew that on our entrance 
there we should be on neutral ground; 
but we apprehended that difficulties woul4 
arise at the barrier, on account of our passr^ 
port. The only one which we could pre^- 
sent, was that given to us by general Lau- 
riston, empowering Mrs. Smith to travel 
wherever she pleased : our fears, however^ 
happily subsided, when the proper officer 
signed this passport without hesitating an 
instant, or asking who I was (thinking mc 
to be her servant). We rejoiced extreme- 
ly at having so easily overcome such a 
prominent obstacle : but continued to has- 
ten our steps, as we were afraid of being 
cdled back, to have the pass re-examined. 



131 

We judged it prudent to keep the ckv 
dumstance of our flight a profound secret, 
as vvc could not flatter ourselves with the 
hope that the passport would ensure us a 
free passage through Saltzburgh, it having 
become utterly useless, for it was con- 
firmed by no signature at any place in Ita- 
ly or the Tyrol. Our intention was, to go 
to Gratz, where Mrs. Smith's children 
and sister (Mad. Strazzoldo) were, and 
the only way to be attempted w^as by the 
Saltzburghese hills, asking the road to 
Styria as we went. We determined at 
random on crossing the mountain of Ber- 
toscad, though we knew nothing of the di- 
rection to be taken ; but the country peo- 
ple pointed this out to us, and I managed 
the reins of our wearied animal accord- 
ingly. 

The same day we arrived at Waispack, 
situated at the foot of this mountain, and 
containing a church and an inn. Ah ! 
how can I ever lose the memory of this 
place, which offered us the first asylum af- 
ter such tempestuous agitation, so many 



13^ 

cares, such trouble and fatigne ! and 
where, secluded in a manner from the 
whole Avorld, we were able to indulge 
ourselves in the hope of perfect security I 
This village, standing at a distance from 
the highway and from any city, is sur- 
rounded by hills, in which silence and 
solitude reign, interrupted only by the 
streams that rush down the sides of the 
mountain in their rugged channels. We 
were invited here, for the first time, to re* 
pose ourselves, free from our late cruel 
solicitude : we were no longer oppressed 
by a fear of treachery at the hands of 
those whom we met, or a dread of being 
arrested by whoever approached us. At 
Waispack we staid a whole day, and the 
next we intended to reach the summit of 
the mountain ; but Mrs. Smith's strength 
was not equal to such a walk : the people 
however directed us another road, along 
the river, leading to Zell, whence we 
w^ere to proceed to Styria, through a most 
delightful country. 

No landscape better deserves to be de- 



15S 

scribed in the liveliest colours of language, 
than the enchanting scenes which are so 
richly lavished by the hand of nature 
along the banks of the lake of Zell. Were 
I endowed with the transcendant genius of 
Horace or of Virgil, what a truly fascina- 
ting sketch would I not produce of a coun- 
trv less dreary than the mountains of Berne 
or Zurick, but replete with all that beauti- 
ful contrast, so peculiar to many of the 
most romantick parts of Switzerland ! 
The eye is pleased with a multitude of cot- 
tages, the simple inhabitants of which are 
agreeably united, and pursue their agri- 
<:ultural labours. Further up among the 
hills, small houses are interspersed every- 
where ; and from time to time the wel- 
come inn is found, which affords better 
fare than that of the large villages in the 
Tyrol. 

These people have been attentive to the 
place of their religious exercise : the 
church is splendid, and well officiated; 
and for this purpose they deprive them- 
selves of a certain superfluity of domestick 



134 

comforts. The inhabitants of the environs 
of this lake are robust, and well made ; 
yet through the most of the Saltzburgese 
territory one is disagreeably struck with 
the sight of a race of beings who exhibit 
art extraordinary chain of the modifications 
of nature, almost from the monkey to the 
man* I looked with compassion at a num- 
ber of deformed wretches, whose config- 
uration was so little human, that every 
movement was accompanied by perpetual 
contortion. What objects of pity are 
those miserable creatures who, though 
members of society, hardly possess the 
faculty of vegetating, being actually defi- 
cient in animal orsranization. Even their 
expression is unconnected with articulate 
sounds, and they are unable either to an- 
swer or to comprehend whatever is said 
to them. Such are seen trailing them- 
selves from place to place in the vicinity 
of Salt z burg. 

Oblisred as we were to advance throueh 
mountainous defies, destitute of a path 

to follow, we fouiid it necessary to walk 



through many a wild passage ; we often 
joined the country folks on their way home- 
Avards, as the day began to close, and I 
led by the bridle our horse with our batter- 
ed vehicle. I now felt that our late vicis- 
situdes realized the ideal adventures of 
romance : — shut out from the vortex of 
societ}^, and buried in the solitude of such 
a country, after suffering from the intense 
heat of the sun, we rested ourselves, as 
evening approached, on the borders of 
some stream, or took shelter beneath the 
humble roof of a cottage : considering 
ourselves no longer bound to accelerate 
our steps, how often did we sit in the 
shade of some pine, listening to the night- 
ingale's notes ! Harassed no more by the 
dread of seizure, our minds rambled in 
an investigation of the works of nature. 

But alas, of how short duration was 
this enchanting illusion ! we were destin- 
ed to the most barbarous retribution^ for 
having thus indulged ourselves in a few 
days of peace and comfort. Though de- 
livered from our enemies, capricious fbr. 



i3^ 

time determined on loading us with the 
chains of that very goveinment under 
whose jurisdiction we had hastened tQ 
elaim protection. We had to endure th^ 
sufferings of delinquents, and to inhabit 
the loathsome cell of a prison : it appear^ 
ed that the hardships to which we had beea 
subjected were not sufficient to expiate the 
audacity of our enterprise, and that on our 
heads was to fall the punishment which 
had been reserved for persons unknown 
to us. 

A Tyrolese lady, on whom neither ran6 
inor fortune could justify her passion, lov- 
ed a youth of the condition of a merchant, 
and the obstacles to the accomplishment of 
her desires caused her to elope with him. 
His flight became a matter of publick 
concern ; and all the guards at the con- 
.*iineSj as well as the police, were caution- 
ed for the detention of the parties. The 
vigilance intended for them soon fell upon 
us, and when we reached the frontiers, we 
were prevented from passing them, the 
people there supposing us to be the fugi* 



137 

tives in question. We discovered the mo- 
tive of this impediment, and found that 
it would render our journey by the way of 
Carinthian Styria quite impracticable, as 
also bv the other frontier. 

This adventure seemed almost to have 
something theatrical in it, as in many dra- 
matick plots similar incidents form the ba- 
sis of intrigues and interesting scenes. 
We at first merely smiled at the curiosity 
of the people ; but as we were obliged to 
return to places which we had already pas-, 
sed, we began to be seriously displeased. 
At every step fortune seemed to rejoice in 
oppressing us ; my tranquillity fled before 
unhappy presentiments ; and an idea of 
additional disasters obscured the brighter 
prospect which had begun to dawn. Noth- 
ing now appeared agreeable to our eyes ; 
no object afforded us delight ; and the 
same hills, rivers, and valleys, that before 
had enlivened our imagination, were be-. 
come sources of melancholy, and even of 
disgust. 

M 2 



138 

The affair of the fugitives made us ap- 
prehend that we should be arrested in any 
of the adjacent countries to which we 
might return. From the time of our quit- 
ting Piadstadt we were unable to devise 
measures either decisive or accurate. We 
hoped to be able to ascend the steep moun- 
tain called the Tauro ; and we set out for 
this purpose ; but being obliged to traverse 
the precipices on foot, without being able 
to avoid the frontiers of Carinthian Styria 
(on the other sidfe of the mountain), we 
judged it prudent to return to Radstadt^ 
after having fatigued ourselves for several 
hours. We had now again to contrive 
the means of escaping even from a coun-^ 
try v/hich we could not call inimical ; but 
it seemed as if captivity hovered round us 
wherever Vv^e went, danger faced us at ev- 
ery avenue, and liberty fled from us as we 
hastened to overtake it ; we were doomed 
to struggle against our adverse fate, and 
elude the vigilant police of (^vtry country ; 
not only constrained to avoid cities, but to 
jBy from the confines of kingdoms. 



139 

How were we to pass that frontier where 
we had been mistaken for the fugitives of 
Saltzburg, without making ourselves 
known ? We thought it expedient, in or- 
der to avoid betraying ourselves, to aban- 
don our chaise, and put on the dress of 
peasants, in which disguise we could easi* 
ly pass with the shepherds at sun-rise, as 
they led their flocks : this we conceived tQ 
.be the surest way of averting danger. 

As Vagrain, a small Village four posts 
from Radstadt, had afforded us the most 
perfect repose the day before, we of course 
thought we might return to leave the horse 
and chaise at the inn there ; with orders 
to send them by a man to Gratz ; and also 
purchase the peasant's clothes, in which 
disguise we were to continue our journey 
that night. Could we have imagined that 
in this village we should find the hidden 
means of our misfortune ? Could we have 
supposed that, after baffling the strict vigi- 
lance of the French government, and elu- 
ding the rigour of the Bavarian officer, 
we were to become the dupes of a traitor 
10 an insignificant and peaceable place ? 



140 

On our arrival at Vagrain the same dajj. 
we trusted the chaise and horse to the 
mistress of the inn, informing her that af- 
ter a few days we should return to take 
them again : and every thing appearing se- 
cure, we afterwards bought the country- 
dresses openly. This became a subject of 
the publick curiosity ; and we thought the 
people would have been pleased at seeing 
us lay aside our usual attire, and wear 
their 's. We could not suppose that wear- 
ing the habit of simplicity was a fault ; 
nor were we sensible that the continuance 
of our usual dress was a duty ; least of ail 
could we have suspected that this deserv- 
ed to attract the rigour of government. 
But in these respects we found ourselves 
mistaken ; our adoption of this dress was 
suspected to be a stratagem of deceit and 
perfidy. We had little imagined that this 
would excite malignity ; yet a wretch was 
found whom it prompted to such a line of 
conduct. I now retrace in my mind his 
horrible looks, wherein enough was im-. 
printed to cause every one to shun hini^ 



and believe him dangerous : his forehead 
truiy shewed itself the seat of duplicity ; 
it could almost create in me a sentiment of 
revenge, though unaccustomed to harbour 
such inclination. I see him hastening to 
denounce to the police of San Giovanni, 
that two suspicious persons were endeav- 
ouring to escape in the disguise of coun- 
try dresses : and himself almost by the 
hand conducted the soldiers, with the min- 
ister of the police, who appeared ignorant 
of their object : he entered our rooms, 
exulting in the accomplishment of his wan* 
ton malice, occasioned by no fault of ours : 
he pointed to the country -dresses which 
we wore, caused the bavonets to be di- 
Fected to our persons, and looked around 
for further signs of suspicion and culpa- 
bility ; but none could be found in us, 
except that of not having presupposed the 
possibility of such a monster's existence* 
But I cannot, without horrour, continue 
to depict such a wretch as he appeared 
to me, though I was then ignorant that h^: 
was the cause of our arrest, 



142 

It was nine o'clock in the evening wheitj 
dressed in the country-habits, we were 
ready to depart, carrying on our shoulders 
a basket that contained our other clothes ; 
but we were suddenly alarmed with the 
sound of arms, and strange voices. As 
these approached, a secret impulse pre- 
pared me against a surprise I had hardly 
called the mistress of the inn, to enquire 
of her w^hat this bustle meant, when I 
saw myself surrounded by soldiers and a 
commissary of the police ; who, after ta.- 
king me into custody , entered Mrs. Smith'$ 
room with violence, arrested her, and d€/ 
manded her passport. 

The measures thus taken against us by 
the police of San Giovanni, arose, from 
the circumstance of our being mistake^ 
for the fugitive lady and young man. 
Mrs. Smith shewed the old passport given 
by general Lauriston, and signed at the 
barrier of the Saltzburg states ; and as 
her name, together \yith that of her fam- 
ily, was perfectly well known in that part 
of Germany (her mother having been for 



143 

many years conspicuously engaged at the 
elector of Saltzburg's court), the com- 
missary, on perusing this passport, looked 
with amazement at her, and asked whether 
she could possibly be Mrs. Smith. I now 
attentively viewed the soldiers, and the 
wretch who had been the cause of bring- 
ing them hither ; but he stood apparently 
satisfied in havino; secured us. I wished 
to enquire for what reason we were treat- 
ed thus : but the orders issued by the ma- 
gistrate were, that we rrust be put into 
prison the same evening, unless we could 
shew passports that were sufficient to iden- 
tify our name and character. _ The com- 
missary however recollected having seen 
Mrs. Smith at the gay assemblies of Saitz- 
burg, though she was now so coarsely 
dressed ; and on that account he declined 
to adhere strictly to his instructions, but 
allowed her to remain in her room for that 
night. 

I had already been announced as her 
valet, as she in some degree had reason 
for this, and I for adopting that character. 



Being apprehensive of miscliief, I liad 
some days before torn the passport that 
had given suspicion to the director of the 
police at Trent, and thought it would be 
better to pass for her servant than by my 
real name ; as in the latter character, and 
with a lady travelling through the Tyrolese 
defiles in a stvle so uncommon, our sus,- 
jpicious appearance would have been still 
greater. 

This fiction however was now attended 
with very unpleasant circumstances to me, 
for I was confined all night in the room 
with the soldiers. I pretended to be 
asleep, but listened to the conversation \i^* 
tween the commissary and the mistress of 
the inn. She gave him all the informatioii 
she was able, from the time we had first 
come that way : and the man who had de- 
liounced us, examined the whole room 
to see that all was faithfuHv under the care 
of our guards, and that every paper found 
in our port-folios was seized, particularly 
our country -dresses, as they were to jus- 
tify this proceeding. Day-light had hard- 



145 

ly appeared when we wer€ obliged to quit 
the inn at Vagrain as prisoners, and sur- 
I'ounded by the soldiers ; the wretch who 
had denounced us went on before. 

We reached San Giovanni at ten o'clock 
'the same morning. The director of the 
pohce of this village was an old man, so 
ignorant ;of every language excepting Ger- 
man, that all his endeavours to compre- 
hend the Italian passport were ineffectual : 
iie therefore requested the assistance of 
,an officer of the infantry, whom he order- 
ed to interrogate us. This gallant Ger- 
man used the most insolent expressions to 
Mrs. Smith ; saying she was nothing more 
than a servant-maid who had the imperti- 
nence to adopt the name of Smith, and 
audacity to shew a passport in that name 
for the purpose of passing unmolested ; 
but this fellow was strangely surprised 
when Mrs. Smith recalled to his mind the 
circumstances attending her residence at 
Inspruck (in consequence of his assertion 
that he had been acquainted wath Mrs. 
Spencer Smith), and even the invitatioa 

K 



U6 

Which he had received from her to an a$^ 
sembly held at her house there. He thus 
at last fully recognized her, but looked 
awkward enough after his improper con^ 
duct. However, he told the minister of 
the police that the passport was regular, 
and this was actually the lady mentioned 
therein ; yet the police of San Giovanni 
had not the power either to decide on what 
appeared mysterious, or to grant us our 
liberty after this explanation* Such an 
important concern v/as necessarily to be 
transferred to the superiour jucigment of 
the police direction of Saitzburg : for 
which purpose w^e were obliged to quit 
San Giovanni on our way to the former 
place, accompanied by an armed escort* 

I must be permitted to describe my ad- 
miration on viewincc the countrv about 
Saitzburg, though my feelings at the 
time were very little disposed for the re- 
ception of agreeable impressions ; yet such 
were those proceeding from the alluring 
prospect, that I could hardly forbear from 
exclaiming : Nature here appears rich in 



147 

awful variety, precipices, streams, and 
trees, blending their colours with a taste- 
ful distribution, which no art can imitate, 
no fiction equal. This enchanting scene 
continues for the extent of four posts and 
a h-ilf. It was then that I said : " Here 
indeed do I admire the majesty of Na- 
ture : never has she appeared hitherto be- 
fore my eyes in such splendid attire/' 
But these effusions ill became my station 
of valet ; and Mrs. Smith, with a sign, 
explained her disapprobation of my non- 
conformity to the simplicity suiting the 
character which I now represented. 

Every forest, every rising ground seem-, 
ed to issue forth to view with a sort of 
pride that demanded the tribute of our 
praise. The surrounding objects ; the 
fanciful form of the mountain ; the grace- 
ful masses of the foilage ; the hideous as- 
pect of the caverns ; the silence along the 
lofty pines ; the lucid tears of the droop- 
ing willows ; the majesty of the firs ; and 
the fugitive horizon, purple-grey, at an 
immense distance ; the proiiiick field, as 



14'^ 

jf bashful to appear before these shaded 
vortexes ; a wavering atmosphere ; a- 
;melancholy sounding echo ; the sight of. 
•scattered flocks ; the reiterated murmurs 
of the waters ; the contrast, in short, of 
the grand productions of nature, who 
without colours or canvas, steel or marble^ 
-creates and does not imitate — displays and 
does not illude — exhibits the most fasci- 
^iiating pictures yet does not paint ; wha 
offers the archetype to the research of 
truth ; gives animation to her works and 
motion to her offspring :— ail concurred m 
forcing from my lips the accents of my 
transport, the expansions of my enthusi- 
asm ; and the blessings arising from my 
joy and content in observing and admir^ 
ing her. 

What must have been the sufferings of 
a mind which had constantly been the 
asylum of truth, when called upon in such, 
moments to suppress its emotions, and as- 
sume the mask of dissimulation ! In se^ 
cret, however, I indulged my feelings j 
and even was on the point of giving nU 



149 

terance to the impression made on me by 
the magnificence of nature, when an im- 
perious glance from Mrs. Smith checked 
my transport, and told me to be silent. 
I willingly affected to act the submissive 
part assigned me of valet to the unhappy 
victim ; and braved every trial, every 
hardship, in order to alleviate her suffer- 
ings : for I determined to complete the 
friendly services which I had promised, 
and save her if possible. Indeed was not 
my patient forbearance fully evinced by 
the suppression of all resentment upon 
this occasion ? 

We entered Saltzburg at eleven o'clock 
at night, after being drenched by continual 
showers of rain during three or four hours: 
and were conducted to an inn ; where a 
maid-servant, who had formerly attended 
Mrs. Smith, recollected her instantly, but 
appeared astonished at seeing her in com- 
pany of the officers of justice. We w^ere 
soon announced to the government ; and 
shortly afterward a rigorous minister visi- 
ted us, who desired to know our names. 

N 2 



150 

I told him that mme was Raimondi, and 
I was valet tro the lady ; and Mrs. Smith 
told him her real name : but this did not 
appear satisfactory to him, and he de- 
manded to know the reason of onr dis^ 
guise. A mere w^him replied she : But a 
simple answer hardly ever suffices to con» 
viace those employed in the discovery of 
guilt ; and in the present case it was ill 
adapted to appease a set of men, whose 
thirst after punishment is seldom assuaged 
unless actions present them-selves under 
criminal appearances ; unless thoughts are 
disclosed which may often be neither pro- 
per nor prudent, and unless they are fur- 
nished with a^ string of argument and mat- 
ter on which they imy exert their baleful 
sophistry. How does it happen that those 
to whom the judgment of human actions 
is referred, and upon whom depends the 
civil security of the subject, should har- 
bour an anxious desire of finding men 
culpable, and of inflicting punishment^ 
thus conducting themselves as a scourge 
towards society ? They odiously seek, by 
CYery sort of casuistry and chicanej foi? 



151 

marks of crime ; and interpret actions so 
subtilely as to make them come under the 
lash of the law with apparent propriety* 
Ought they not, on the contrary, with the 
gentle sentiments of humanity, to be aw^ake 
to a sense of human frailty ; and overlook^ 
or even conceal many of the inferiour fail- 
ings of man ? But do I say conceal them P 
ah, no ! such was not the design of tha 
minister who came to investigate our ad- 
■\^enture. 

He took pleasure iti misrepresenting our 
harmless conduct, and framing his report 
of it in terms of suspicion : he tried to 
confuse the words of Mrs. Smith and me, 
and insisted that he could perceive crimi- 
nality ; but we found ourselves out of the 
reach of similar accusations. Every meth- 
od was used by him to draw from us the 
secret of our flight. He pretended to be 
Mrs. Smith's friend, and begged her to 
explain the motive that led her to wander 
in such places with an equipage so very 
inferiour : and next adopted threats ; urg- 
ing that the whole must be confessed to 



152 

him as minister, since her situation was 
truly suspicious. He alternately promised 
us our liberty and menaced that we should 
undergo the rigours of the law. But how 
could we hope for protection from men 
who, though unable to trace any crime in 
us, were capable of arresting and tradu- 
cing us like delinquents before their tribu- 
nals ? Had we not reason to fear, on the 
contrary, that if we had divulged our 
flight, we should have been subjected to 
measures the most severe ; or even, per- 
haps, that they would have considered it 
a duty to make it known to the enemy ? 
Mrs. Smith, who was always firm in her 
answers, told him that she disregarded his 
threats, since she knew herself exempt 
from any fault that could have oiTended 
the Austrian government ; and in order to 
convince him that all his efforts v/ere use- 
less, she observed that she was not bound 
to disclose what could never concern any 
tribunal of Germany. 

■ Our examiner, (whose name was Car- 
nieri), offended by these answers, conceiY- 



15a 

ed £l sentiment of revenge ; the usual re- 
source of those who go beyond the extent 
of their power, for the purpose of perse- 
cuting innocence. Quite enraged on find-, 
ing that all his arguments were unavailing^ 
*' Madam," said he, " this is the last time 
that I shall insist on being made acquaint* 
<jd with the secret that envelopes your eon- 
duct, which to me bears so very strange 
an appearance. A refusal may occasion 
very disagreeable consequences : for fron* 
this moment it is my duty to place guards 
over you ; and to defer till to-morrow tliei 
examination of yourself, as well as that o£ 
your servant, who stands in a still more 
awkward situation." Carnieri' then left 
us, and we remained under the custody of 
two soldiers, and an officer of justice du- 
ring that night. 

Count Bissingen was governour of the 
city of Saltzburg. Willi this man's fam^ 
ily Mrs. Smith w^as intimately acquainted ; 
having known him both at Vienna and at 
Venice during her residence there. She 
therefoi'e expected to find him as attentive 



154 

as he had formerly been at Venice, when 
he offered her his good offices ; but this 
xvorthy count now forgetting the assem- 
blies, and dinners at which he had been 
accustomed to meet her for a whole year, 
said on receiving a note from Mrs. Smith, 
requesting the favour of an audience, that 
he had never been the friend of any such 
person, nor had any knowledge of her ^ 
he did not even answer her note ; but 
granted full power to Carnieri, to act ac- 
cording to the law (that is, agreeable to 
his own will), thus acceding to the sus* 
picions that were formed against her. It 
would be useless to comment on the sense 
of indignation which such a breach of 
friendship and humanity must inspire : but 
what could have induced this man to deny 
his former acquaintance with Mrs. Smith? 
Perhaps because her situation might stand 
in need of his assistance in demanding 
her liberty, in opposition to the malevo- 
le;ice of the director of the police ! Could 
this have been the reason for his acting in 
such a manner — But let me drop so truly 
odious a subject. 



155 

Scarcely had the following day appear- 
ed, before Carnieri arrived, desirous to 
vent his rage upon me ; he could not well 
upon my companion, she being in some 
degree known to him. When I awoke, I 
found myself surrounded by three police 
officers, who ordered me to follow them 
instantly. I wished to see Mrs. Smith, 
to concert with her the means of escaping 
again ; but my attendants would not allow 
a word to be spoken, and seemed ready 
to inflict bodily punishment for even a 
gesture. 

I was led like a culprit to the police, 
where Carnieri appeared. 1 was here 
questioned in all the formality of a legal 
trial. He asked me at what time I had 
commenced my journey. I answered the 
truth. He then inquired what countries 
I had travelled through. " Italy and the 
Tyrol," replied T. He desired to know 
why I appeared in disguise. I replied 
" to please my mistress.'' '' From what 
motive" continued he, " does this woman 
(who calls herself Mrs. Smith) make use 



-of so wretched a vehicle, rand avoid the 
cbigh road, going by the untrodden paths 
of the mountains ?" " As a servant,'^ 
said I, ^' it does not become me to judge 
(the conduct of my mistress ; but I believe^ 
in this instance, it arose from mere fancy." 
Here he stopped and in the mean time a 
dltrk .wrote down my deposition. 

^Forgetting that I acted the part of valet, 
I suffered some questions to escape me, 
relating to the population of Saltzburg, 
the internal traffick of its territory, and its 
military strength. This increased the di- 
4*ector's suspicions, w^ho already had suffi- 
xient doubts of my being a servant ; and 
not thinking that J understood the German 
language, ;he said to the clerk : " This 
servant meddles in politicks." I pretend- 
<ed not to know what he said, and appear- 
ed attentive only to what was being written 
in my name. Two officers of the police 
were at this time sent to interrogate Mrs. 
Smith, for the purpose of gaining every 
mformation which might make us seem 
Culpable. She was ignorant of my situa^- 



157 

tion since I had last seen her ; but I was not 
so of her's ; knowing that she had been 
permitted to remain at the inn where I left 
her. 

The director, satisfied with having af- 
forded me the honour of his presence so 
long, said, on leaving me : " You must 
remain here for the present. I shall soon 
return ; and then your fate will be unfold- 
ed to you." I was instantly placed under 
the care of an inhuman old man, whose 
age seemed to have hardened him in the 
rigour of guarding prisons, and loading 
his fellow-creatures with chains. He led 
me to a room situated near the river Sal- 
sa, and there left me. 

I waited impatiently till the hour of Car- 
nieri's return ; and my imagination at in- 
tervals combined a train of doubts and 
ideas naturally arising from such a state of 
uncertainty, and particularly in awaiting 
the issue of an adventure likely to be ter- 
minated in secrecy and darkness. My ap- 
prehension that through the shameful pro- 

o 



158 

teedings of this man, we miglit ultimate- 
ly be consigned over to the enemy, aug- 
mented my anxiety tenfold : however, 
when my reason allowed me to reflect on 
the principles of justice, I hoped that a 
neutral government would not act so cru- 
elly ; and thus at intervals, my state of 
sufiering was alleviated. But it was not 
the dreary dungeon v/hicli confined me in 
its awful solitude, nor the keen elfects of 
cold and hunger which occasioned my trou- 
ble : it was the iarnorance of the measures 
adopted by this minister, concern with re- 
gard to the fate reserved for us, and doubt 
of not succeeding at last, after hc.ving ef- 
fected my companion's escape so happily, 
that oppressed my spirits. Thus we are 
insensible to physical evils, when the mind 
is either deeply afflicted or agreeably ex- 
cited. 

I had passed the hours of the day in 
this tumult of rejections, and the evening 
approached to incre: se my sorrow ; bu| 
the okl man to wbcm I was confided, and' 
to whom the sight of my disiress was vis- 



159 

ibly pleasing, then introduced a youth, 
v/ho spoke to me in Latin. Far from sus- 
pecting this to be a scheme for the pur- 
pose of discovering whether I was a ser- 
vdnt or not, I was happy to find a person 
who could answer my questions. In a 
state of suspense, we readily make re- 
peated inquiries respecting the cause of 
our distress, in the hope of fincUng relief. 
Anxious to obtain information of our fate, 
I thousrht that I misrht demand it of this 
man, whom I conjectured to be in some 
pubiick employment ; but before I spoke 
upon this subject, he congratulated me on 
the enlargement of my mistress, which, he 
said, was to take place the next day, add- 
ing that my destiny could not be known 
so soon* I asked him to inform me of the 
reasons for protracting my imprisonmnent, 
as I was free from every mark of crime : 
but before our Latin dialogue could pro- 
ceed any further, the jailer entered, and 
in the roughest manner obliged me to quit 
the place I was then in, leading me up to 
a dreary ceil, high in the tower. " Here," 
said he, " is the place which you are to 



160 

inhabit, the other not being allotted to the 
guilty." This unexpected treatment quite 
overcame my feelings, and plunged me 
into the most tormenting affliction. 

A mephitick air, unfit for respiration, 
©ppressed my lungs ; the cold of the dead- 
ly atmosphere that prevailed here, was ex- 
treme : and I was refused woolen cover- 
ings to protect me from it, and even food 
to support nature. I had scarcely entered, 
before my eyes were struck with the sight 
of a man, whose bushy hair and beard 
covered his face : he lay stretched upon a 
couple of boards. When I had come in, 
he was told that he must share his bed with 
me ; and the jailer, after having thus acted 
his part, went away, leaving me in dark- 
ness, and the dismal company of this ob- 
ject. I refrained from speaking to inter- 
rupt his silence, which I supposed was 
agreeable to him, but I cculd not suppress 
the movements of my heart, and deny 
myself the resource of profound sighs. 
With a hoarse voice, perhaps imagining 
me as criminal as himself, and of cours<a 



161 

that I ought to have appeared equally in- 
accessible to feeling or sentiment, he re- 
proached my weakness as ridiculous, and 
even added that I ought to support my sit- 
uation with gaiety. I was on the point of 
calling him an insensible miscreant, but 
I forgave these ideas in a man, who short- 
ly afterwards told me he was a murderer : 
he said he thought the act of homicide be- 
coming and laudable, when occasioned by 
an excess of rage. Indeed the atrocity of 
his mind must have rendered him incapa- 
ble of commiseration ; and his taunts be- 
ing of no importance to me, I stood re- 
flecting in silence on the critical situation 
to which I was brought, 

I meditated the means of acain rescuinp* 
by flight the lady, of whom I ccuid learn 
nothing further, and myself. I was dis- 
posed to attempt any plan that might re- 
lieve her, regardless of my own personal 
danger, however imminent. An impulse 
of honour taught me to save her or perish : 
I glowed wit'i the desire of realizing this, 
but my thoughts were embittered by the 

o 2 



162 

impossibility of communicating with her* 
Ideas crime rushing* on so confusedly, that 
I was no longer able to reflect coolly : con- 
tradictory inferences drove me from the re- 
fuge of hope, and an accumulation of dis- 
aster seemed to thicken before me. While 
thus wavering in the illusory dreams of 
conjecture, I was startled by the voice of 
the iailer, who calling me by the name of 
Raimondi, told me that the minister was. 
waiting for me on the bench. I thought 
it strange to be thus summoned, as it were, 
to be tried, and at a time when the night 
was far advanced ; but even this presented 
to my mind some gleam of hope. 

I appeared before Carnieri with the re- 
spect suitable to the character of a servant. 
He had just returned from his examina-. 
tion of Mrs. Smith. The conduct of this 
man Vv^as truly remarkable : he had, with- 
out any proof of our culpability, treated 
us with the utmost severity, preventing 
the mediation of Mrs. Smith's friends, 
who had wished to assist her. His suspi- 
xions induced her to withhold a disclosure 



163 

of our flight, as it could have in no way 
flicilitated our enlargement ; nor was it at 
all necessary, considering that we had in 
no manner given offence to the Austrian 
government : a government which we had 
considered so shortly before, as the secure 
asylum of our persons, under whose influ- 
ence we had panted to arrive for safety, 
and which we had expected to find a sure 
protection against the enemy ; but we now 
found an iniquitous magistrate distorting 
it into oppression, and betraying (in a man- 
ner) the prince, whom he was bound to 
serve. After endeavouring, by the most 
deceitful and insidious means to ensnare 
Mrs. Smith, he found himself completely 
unsuccessful. Her answers were consist- 
ent and positive ; and her remarks tended 
to instruct him in not overstepping the du- 
ty of his office, as w^ell as in limiting his 
interrogations to the imn ediate object in 
concern ; and she reproached him for what 
he uttered expressive of his desire to 
prove us culpable. He confessed to her 
the embarrassment which he felt from her 



164 

answers, and said that he did know what 
to resolve upon. 

He thought proper, however, to peruse 
every paper left at the police of San Gio- 
.vanni, and which had been delivered to 
him sealed. Among these were several 
letters directed to me ; among which were 
one from the Society of Letters and Sci- 
ence at Turin, with its address printed, a 
poem in rhyme, with my name to it, and 
two journals of my travels. All these in- 
creased his suspicions with regard to me, 
and in a written consultation by Doctor 
Allietti (a Venetian physician), which 
Mrs. Smith had with her, he read that 
she was doomed to a French prison. 
These documents highly excited his an- 
ger, on his reflecting that her conduct 
would have left him destitute of all infor- 
mation. He came to re-examine me, 
shewing marks of displeasure, and asked 
me again who I was ? I answered Francis 
Raimondi, a servant. He next enquired 
what wages I received ; on which I told 
him five Ve m itian livres a day. He de« 



165 

sired to know how long I had had the hon- 
our of bemg with the lady ; I fixed the 
time at two months. On this he paused, 
smiled ironically, and then said he should 
think himself fortunate in being served by 
such a valet ; and I replied, that it would 
also gratify me extremely to have a mas- 
ter like him. All my answers were in uni- 
son with the sly tone and gravity of his 
questions. Suddenly, however, he alter- 
ed his countenance, and affecting compas- 
sion for mc, said : I never knew a woman 
more unfeeling than your mistress. She 
knows how much you suffer, but does 
not care for it. She cannot be ignorant 
how precarious your situation is, yet she 
makes no inquiry about you. She must 
know that you are without the means of 
procuring yourself nourishment, or of re- 
turning to Italy, and still she does not re- 
lieve you. I asked her whether she wish- 
ed to wait till a decision took place con* 
cerning you, but she said she only wanted 
her own liberty, as her servant did not oc- 
cupy her thoughts. In short, she will go 
away to-morrow, without lining once ask* 



166 

cd about you ? Is this a consequence of 
your misconduct, or of her insensibility? 
Neither, said I, it is only your mistake ; 
but supposing all this to be the case, I shall 
never accuse her of selfishness, if slie 
should obtain her release from you. I 
could not help giving way to this freedom 
©f speech, though it might betray me. 

One question only remained to be asked, 
and that was, whether I knew the Mm^qim 
de Salvo ? This quite astonished me, as 
I was unable to conceive by what means 
he had discovered my name ; however, I 
was more resolute in ansv/ering than he 
was in interrogating me, and accordingly 
said, that gentleman was Mrs. Smith's 
friend, and had travelled in her company 
a part of the journey in Italy, but that on 
his departure for Milan, he had left some 
of his effects with her till he should over.- 
take her at Vienna. These answers, con- 
tinued he, lead me to suspect that you are 
the Marquis's servant, and the woman 
heraelf the maid-servant of Mrs. Smith ; 
and that haviag stolen the jewels and other 



167 

articles belonging to your master and mis- 
tress, you are trying to escape* I was 
inflamed at hearing such an accusation, 
and the violence of my emotions could no 
longer be repressed. I indignantly repli- 
ed, '' Such charges wound the feelings of 
every man, however mean his condition 
may be. You arrogate a style which no 
other man would have the audacity to as- 
sume, while the imputations against us re- 
main unproved, at a time also when you 
have thought it proper to load me with 
sufferings from your own wanton caprice ; 
but though you have it in your power to 
deprive me of my liberty, I defy you to 
injure my character. Remember that in 
all stations men ought to know and adhere 
to their duty." 

When I had thus expressed my emo- 
tions, this perfidious man, in a passion, 
ordered me back to the cell, where I pas- 
sed the night in the greatest anxiety, de- 
vising the means of effecting my escape. 
For almxost two days I had hardly touched 
any food ; and about the middle of the 



168 

following day, unable to resist the call of: 
nature any longer, I called to the jailer to 
bring me some nourishment. On this a 
commissary hastily came up, and threat- 
ened me with the severest chastisement, 
by order of the director, if I should again 
raise my voice ; adding at the same time, 
that M. Carnieri was to come to speak 
with me that evening, about two hours af- 
ter sun- set. 

Mrs. Smith had already departed, but 
I was not informed of that circumstance 
till the director came to examine me, 
which he did at the appointed hour, and 
then said : '' Your mistress is released, 
and gone from Saltzburg ; you may follow 
her, if you w^ill first candidly declare who 
you really are. The opinion occasioned 
by your conduct obliges me to defer any 
favourable decision respecting you." I 
answesed, " If such opinion has not pre- 
vented the enlargement of the lady, I must 
return to my prison ; but I leave in your 
hands the fate reserved for me." His van- 
ity was hurt at seeing me superiour to all 



169 

iiis duplicity. *' Such obstinacy iii cou- 
cealing your name," continued he, '* is 
useless. Consider me no long-er as the 
director of the police interrogating Rai- 
mojidi the servant^ but look on me as Car^ 
nieri conversing with the Marqids de Sal- 
vo, and desirous of his confidence : and 
that, stripped of all publick authority, I 
com.e to question you as a friend, inform- 
tid of your character not only by the papers 
testifying your name, but also by the as- 
sertion of Mrs. Smith herself, who, pre- 
vious to her departure, ceased to make 
any further mystery concerning either you 
or her journey." I was now uncertain 
whether I should believe him or not, and 
demanded in confirmation his word of hon- 
our. He therefore, accustomed to the 
violation of this sacred pledge, asserted 
that such was the truth uDon his honour ; 
on which I satisfied him of whatever rela> 
te 1 to my name, but carefully avoided 
sp3 iking of Mrs. S nidi's detention or es- 
Ciipe. His former injustice was now chan- 
ged into the m s flattering marks of fa- 
vour, and assurances of the sincerest re- 

p 



170 

gret for the steps which he had taken in 
consequence of this accident ; but he used 
every argument to justify these, obhging 
me to blame only myself. *' The suspi- 
cions," said he '■' respecting your persons, 
have occasioned a juridical report to be 
sent to those who are to decide upon your 
destiny ; in the mean time, you may, in 
the company of a commissary, continue 
your journey to Lintz, where, with Mrs. 
Smith, vou are to wait for further orders." 

I set out the same evening for Lintz, 
where I arrived the following night ; and 
though, as still being the servant of Mrs. 
Smith, a room had been intended for me 
in the prison there, the police director, 
when informed of the sudden change of 
my character, agreed instantly to afford me 
all the favour that could be granted to a 
young traveller who Was under the vigi- 
lance of the government. During the 
first days 1 was not allowed to visit Mrs; 
Smith, whom 1 thought informed of all 
that had happened : on the third day, how- 
ever, I had the honour of seeing her : she 



171 

expressed her amazement at my disclosure 
of my name ; and when she had heard 
that 1 had been led to it by what had fal- 
len from her own lips, she shuddered widi 
horroiir at so base a falsehood, as well as 
at hearing from me the suITerings to which 
I had been subjected since I left her. She 
had been unable to procure any certain in- 
formation relating to me, but the people 
at Saltzburg had told her that I was to go 
tQ Italy. 

Lintz, situated on the banks of the 
Danube, appears toward the river in one 
of the most fanciful and pretty aspects 
that can be found any where. Almost 
every morning before the sun rose, I walk- 
ed along the borders of the river, breath- 
ing the air of liberty, but still uncertain 
how long I was to remain free. With 
what real satisfaction did my mind look 
back on the dangers which I had escaped, 
and the fears I had endured, yet my un- 
certainty respecting events that might still 
render all my hopes illusory, damped ni}^ 
spirits. How pleasant it was to me to sit 



172 

in the shadow of the rock, and hear only 
the sound of the gliding waters, while 
the serene and placid atmosphere was all 
in silence. Many a time did I wish for the 
permission to live there forever in free-. 
dom ; but while I was thus engaged, our 
fate was ordained. 

On the fifth day after my arrival at Lintz> 
I had heard at Mrs. Smith's house that 
our release was fully granted, on conditioa 
of our departing under fictitious names^ 
from the states of a power whose neutrality 
ipreclyded our further stay. 



173 



SECOND PART 



I OUGHT perhaps to commence this 
epoch of my vicissitudes in the language 
of tranquillity. It seemed that our evil 
star had set at last, and that we should exn 
perience no more such days as those which 
had obliged us to wander in the trackless 
mazes of the mountains, fai' from human 
intercourse, while our sole resource was 
the tacit expansion of our heavy hearts. 
A road was opened to us by the govern- 
ment. Our liberty had been at first pur- 
chased with fear and hardship ; and after- 
ward by retreating from places replete 
with danger, and where, though our escape 
might have been admired, it could not 
have been protected. It had appeared as 
if our deliverance from captivity demand- 
ed so many cares, that all others were 
precluded, and the ultimate fulfilment of 
our desires v/as impeded. It was to see 
lier mother, to embrace her sister, and re« 

p3 



174 

©over her darling children, that my com- 
panion v/ent through Germany by these 
provinces ; but the road ordered to be ta- 
ken by the cautious government rendered 
these designs abortive^ The attainment 
of her desires being thus denied, she trav- 
elled without pleasure ; she complained of 
the immense distance from one place to 
another, and found fault with the divisions 
of territory. By the aid of her imagina- 
tion, she drew into one point those objects 
of her affection, representing them at 
some of the places which she was to pass ; 
but this illusion vanished upon her receiv- 
ing orders two days afterv/ards to repair 
to Prague in Bohemia, whence she was ta 
take the road to Saxony or Russia. 

She had washed for nothing more than 
her liberty ; yet now it was not sufficient 
to make her happy. She had trembled 
for her personal security ; but even afiti: 
obtaining this, she was still uneasy and 
discontented. Hov/ difficult it is to se-. 
cure for a single instant that complete feli« 
city to which every human, action tend§* 



175 

When free from all physical ills, from ter- 
rour and fatigue, the mind and the passions 
militate against those comforts which 
ought to result. Who would not have 
supposed Mrs. Smith happy at such a time, 
when every difficulty had been so fortu- 
nately surmounted ? But her children were 
far from her, nor did she know where to 
find them, whether at her sister's or 
mother's, or in the hands of the enemy. 
Coaid she possibly abandon Germany with- 
out getting intelligence regarding them, 
and without taking them with her to Eng- 
land, if possible, where she was anxious 
to arrive to join her husband ? 

But it was not the children alone that 
she abandoned, in quitting the continent, 
for perhaps they were already on their v/ay 
to London, with their preceptor. On 
leaving Styria, she would have been de- 
prived of the happiness of embracing her 
sister, of giving her a detail of her vicis- 
situdes, and of consoling her with regard 
to the apprehensions of her safety. Both 
Mrs, Smith's mother and sister were igno- 



176 s, 

rant of her escape, and having learned 
that she had been made a prisoner, must 
have still supposed her in the custody of 
the French. 

These considerations greatly diminished 
the pleasure of emancipation. Real joy 
cannot be concealed ; neither prmdencc 
nor dissimulation can prevent it from ap- 
pearing manifest to the nice. observer ; but 
a contrast of sensations naturally occasions 
Jt depression of spirits. This was the 
state of Mrs. Smith's mind when she con-, 
versed with me in the house of the director 
of the police of Lintz. She observed 
that the duty imposed by the government 
embittered that felicity which she would 
have experienced, if she had been permit- 
ted to seek her children, and to deposit in 
the breast of her dear Clementina (her 
sister) the tale of her adventures, and per- 
haps succeed in persuading her to come 
to England, in order to alleviate the hard- 
ships of the journey. Thus another fa- 
vourable occasion of enterprise offered it- 
self to me, and if a sense of my duty had 



177 

stimulated mc to the attempt of efFecting 
her release, the same piinciple was now 
sufficient to induce me again to use my 
endeavours in whatever could tend to her 
happiness. I did not then imagine that I 
was forbidden to stay any length of time 
in the imperial dominions ; I therefore 
told her that 1 was ready to undertake any 
journey through Germany for the purpose 
of recovering her children, and that I 
would conduct them from Gratz, where 
I supposed they were, to Prague ; she ac- 
cepted my offer with joy, and this w^as all 
I wished. 

The worthy director of the police re* 
presented to me the impediments likely to 
occur in the journey, and the danger inci- 
dent to my situation ; but of what weight 
could such considerations be, when the 
forlorn mother stood trembling for the 
safety of her children ! My imagination 
figured the lovely boys running to my 
arms to ask me tidings of their mamma, 
whom thev had left surrounded with French 
guards, and I anticipated the rapture of 



178 

the countess on my announcing the escape 
of her sister. No ; it was impossible that 
I could have resigned such an enterprise, 
worthy at once of the man of feeling and 
the disinterested friend. 

From Lintz to Gratz there is no direct 
road, except across the enormous moun- 
tains. Though I had visited Germany the 
year before, the nature of this part of it 
was totally unknown to me : it is extreme.. 
ly uneven, and the paths along the valleys 
being made only for the use of the coun^ 
try people, are often dangerous and steep. 
No other road however was I permitted to 
take than this ; in which there was no post 
established, and of course I could never 
expect to find either a chaise or horses_, 
so that I had no resource but the faithful 
animal that hadindefatigably performed our 
escape through the Tyrol and Saltzburg. 
Without further delay I confidently prom- 
ised Mrs. Smith to overtake her at Prague 
in the space of ten days, together with 
her two boys, and left Lintz towards even^ 
ing, in the original vehicle drawn by tli^ 



' 179 

(did horse, an equipage truly grotesque, 
being the same that we had purchased of 
the innkeeper at Trent. 

The environs of Lintz, on each side 
the rivers Vein and Ems, appeared lux- 
uriant and rich ; and it was pleasing to 
observe the women retiring at that hour 
from the town to their villages, carrying 
the articles which they had been purchas- 
ing. In their company I travelled till 
night came on, when I found myself alone 
in a forest of oak trees, at no great dis^ 
tance from the river, the course of which 
regulated the steps of the horse. I ar- 
rived soon after midnight at a village call- 
ed Stayer, and after giving the horse a 
fev/ hours rest, I continued my way as the 
day approached, without knowing the 
proper roa^l to be taken. 

The aspect of the country throughout 
Styria is rugged and coarse, exhibiting a 
profusion of awful prospects. By means 
of steep mountains the eye is prevented 
from enjoying a spacious horizon, and all 



180 

the level space which is visible, consists 
t)nly of a road winding along the bottom 
of tremendous masses, where nature, a 
mighty hermit, sits formidably at top in 
savage and wild appearance* The travel- 
ler, surrounded by a numerous heap of 
rude precipices, either grows weary and 
dull at such monotony, or is absorbed in 
the gloom of misanthropy, which in that 
silence assails the mind congenially. Yet 
let not the eye that seizes on these resrions 

- - - ■ ■ V O O ' 

cease to admire the happy compensations 
granted by nature for the deficiency of 
blooming fields ; the solitary valley, sha- 
ded by the ridiest vegetation, receives its 
moisture from a multitude of streams i; 
woods adorn the variegated sides of the 
mountain ; and the pines rooted aloft, close 
these picturesque sceries, with their tops 
frequently immersed in the cljuds. The 
most beautiful flowers too are profusely in- 
terspersed with the abundant pasture. 

I compared the population, productions, 
and comforts of this romantick country 
with those which I had observed to exist 



181 

u\ a soil extensively level. In the former, 
the villages were more frequent than in the 
other, cattle also were more numerous on 
the rising grounds of Styria, than in the 
j)4ains of Austria or Bohemia ; the labour- 
ers were less wretched, industry was bet- 
ter conducted, their manners were sim- 
pler, and their minds more sincere. 

In this stupendous labyrinth I travelled 
a whole day, beholding with silent aston- 
ishment the stern and ericrantick exhibi- 
tions of nature. I could descry no egress, 
except my narrow path, edged on one 
side by a furious torrent that ran beneath 
those precipices whose tops seemed to de- 
fy the storm, and which, hanging over my 
head, threatened in every direction my al- 
most affrighted imagination with impend- 
ing ruin* In this seat of terrour I indul- 
ged in the melancholy which reigns there 
eternally. No sound reached me but that 
of the rushing streams ; my eyes were 
fixed in amazement at the tremendous 
fragments of fallen rocks, while others ap- 
peared aloft on the verge of dislocation ; 



182 

the horizon Was closed from my sight all 
around,, and the vapour in such a depth 
inade even respiration disagreeable* To- 
wards eight o'clock in the evening I stop- 
ped at the foot of a mountain, a portion 
of which formed the roof of a cottage 5 
and in this solitary place I passed the night. 
The scene before me was truly majestick .: 
the primitive age of sublime poetry came 
to my mind, and its fabulous conceptions 
appeared to have received their origin from 
similar prospects; and as darkness ap* 
iproached, my thoughts wandered to the 
remotest times of antiquity* But sleep at 
last enveloped my senses. 

The next day I continued my journey t 
but from tim.e to time stopped to see the 
cascades which, being formed by the 
thaws of the snow^ fell from the precipices* 
The numerous fiocks of sheep afforded a 
proof of the comfortable state of the peas- 
ants:; which- was confirmed on beinq: told^ 
that each of them, however poor, was pos- 
sessed of two cows, and a field of grass* 
In general they are the cultivators of their 



^83 

own lands, and woodmen of their own 
share of the forest. The people in other 
villages thereabout subsist entirely by ma- 
king charcoal. In passing Retfling, 1 per- 
eeived the huts almost subterranean » as 
the people are all manufacturers of char- 
coal, and that occupation necessarily ren- 
dering them as black as negroes, they ap- 
peared like an African colony come to set. 
tie in Styria. I considered the active traf- 
ick of these provinces as humiliating to 
my own country, for there were roads 
across the mountains, from the top of 
•which I beheld the carts descend, contauir 
ing their produce. 

On my arrival at Leoben, I entered that 
place again with pleasure, though 1 had 
taken my leave of it the year before, in 
the intention of not returning so soon. I 
drew near to Gratz ; and was anxious to 
arrive to see the Countess, and to know 
the fate of the dear children. At length 
this city appeared, nor could I help being 
agitated in more respects than one. I 
feared that I should have to -encounter the 



184 

©bstacles of the police in the execution of; 
my designs ; but I passed the gates with- 
out interruption, after shewing my pass- 
port, and giving to the officer the name of 
the inn that I was going to. I enquired 
immediately for the countess Strazzoldo's 
house, which I soon found out ; but I was 
doubtful w^hether I ought to announce my- 
self, thinking that she might be in compa- 
ny. Without saying any thmg therefore 
to her man, further than asking where she 
Was, I entered her room, and found her 
sitting alone. I told her my name ; but is 
it possible for me to find language suffi- 
.cient to express her immediate astonisK- 
ment, emotions, and transport ! On seeing 
me, she recalled to mind her sister ; she 
thought of the prison where she still sup- 
posed her confined, of her possible escape, 
of her misfortunes, perhaps of her death ! 
She doubted, she wished, and asked, all 
at once. A thousand words were ready, 
and a thousand questions in the same in- 
stant : impelled by her emotion, she sprung 
from her occupations, and ran about al- 
most out of breath, through the violence 



185 

of her agitation ; she raSed her hands, 
and every motion was eloquent in expres- 
sing her desires, while her lips faultered. 
I found myself seized by the enchanting 
sympathy of real feeling ; the attraction 
burst upon me with irresistable force, and 
rendered our affections mutual. She con- 
fusedly asked me : '' My sister — where is 
she ?" but before I could answer, the 
voice of Elmaurer and the cries of little 
Sidney and Edward drew my attention. 
I flew to meet them, I embraced them ; 
and saw the lovely infants happy. I told 
them that their mamma had escaped, and 
that thev would shortlv see her. It was 
then indeed that I experienced the pleasure 
of having been instrumental to their es- 
cape, and to that of their mother ; of hav- 
ing averted the horrours incident to their 
captivity, and of havj^ig probably saved 
their lives : my imagination glowed in tri- 
umph, and my satisfaction was complete. 

In the mean time the countess, impa- 
tient to hear her sisters's adventures, pres* 
sed me to take a seat with the preceptor 

<l2 



W6 

gild 'children* Though I had hardly r^ 
covered from my agitation, I began th© 
narrative from the day when we left Ve- 
nice ; they listened with the most eager 
attention to every syllable that I pronoun^ 
ced, to every incident, however triflings 
that I described. I detailed the difficul- 
ties attending the preparations for escapingj^ 
the subsequent dangers of the enterprise^, 
the hostile force, the deluded gend'armesy 
the averted obstacles; our fears, the treach- 
ery used against us, the fatigue, the anx- 
iety, the solitude, the nights without re- 
pose, the steep and bad roads ; then our 
firmness in suffering, our resources^ the 
instability of our freedom, the detention 
at the confines, the mistake of the fugi- 
tive lady and young man, the seizure at 
the tavern in Vagrain, the prisons, the in- 
justice, the conduei of the director ; and^ 
lastly the discovery of the truth, and pro- 
tection aiForded by the la¥/s to our jour-- 
ney : — all seemed to amaze my hearers, 
who till that time had only listened to sim- 
ilar descriptions as the inventions of ro* 
m^noe or fabulous poetry. Their curi* 



1:87 

osity now gave way to astonishment, and 
their bosoms no longer heaved through, 
fear : the tears of- agitation on my arrival; 
were followed by those of joy ; and their; 
happiness was extreme at finding that we 
had overcome so many obstades. 

I had hardly finished, when. I informed 
the Countess oC the object for which I had; 
come to Gratz ; adding, how pleased her 
sister would be, if the Countess were to 
accompany her to England, as nothing 
else was requisite to complete her felicity : 
that I hoped her husband would have nov 
objection to this, more especially as Mrs. 
Smith's recent detention had arisen from 
her attempt to come to Gratz for the pur- 
pose of embracing her sister. 

Count Strazzoldo came in as I was talk* 
ing to his wife ; and he had the goodness: 
to agree to her request, and permit her 
to join her sister. I was overjoyed to find = 
my journey succeed so well in all its ob* 
jects ; after finding Mrs. Smith's children- 
in perfect health, to have persuaded b^r 



188 

sister to come with me. Every thing thus 
seemed to promise the most happy result, 
and I flattered myself with being the spec- 
tator of a most interesting scene ; for I 
resolved to present the children and the 
Countess myself to Mrs. Smith at Prague. 
In the mean time it was necessary to has- 
ten our departure, as further delay might 
be attended with inconvenience, particu- 
larly as I had promised to reach Prague 
within ten days : I hoped that the police at 
Gratz might not have received instructions 
respecting the order given me not only 4:o 
quit the imperial dominions (and avoiding 
the road by Vienna), but also not to travel 
in the company of persons belonging to 
Mrs. Smith ; and I therefore went to de- 
mand my own passport (which on my ar- 
rival had been consigned to the officer, and 
by him left at the passport office), and 
another for the children j but it happened 
that the police had been informed of the 
measures to be adopted with regard to me ; 
and instead of giving me the passports 
which I had demanded, they ordered the 
preceptor of the children to depart with 



189 

them immediately, without the company 
of any other person whatever ; and I was 
afterward told to pursue my journey incog- 
nito, in obedience to the will of the gov- 
ernment, with a strict injunction to con- 
ceal my name till I should reach the Rus- 
sian frontier, or be otherwise out of Ger- 
many. This obliged the Countess to 
travel alone. Indeed, for my part, I could 
not have offered her a place in my chaise, 
and besides, the rigour of the government 
was a sufficient impediment ; yet notwith- 
standing, as she wished also to go incogs 
nito to meet her sister, she resolved to 
partake of my vehicle as far as Prague, 
The children departed during the night ; 
and we followed them the day after. 

To proceed to England, I required -a 
passport from the Neapolitan minister at 
Vienna ; besides which, I wished to write 
to my family, nor did I know of any other 
medium than his. I also thought myself 
bound to communicate Mrs. Smith's es- 
cape to him, and that I had effected it. It 
was necessary for the Countess to procure 



t passport for the same journey, from the 
-minister for foreign affairs at Vienna; and 
-therefore we decided on going to Bohemia 
"by the way of that city. 

Being unwilling to announce myself at 
the gates of Vienna, in conformity with 
4he advice given to me, the Countess and 
i took care to penetrate by night like the 
^people of the vicinity, avoiding by that 
'means the necessity of shewing our pass- 
ports ; by wdiich conduct I wished to 
prove my obedience and respect for the 
sovereign who protected us. We entered 
Vienna about two in the morning; but 
:were obliged to wait in the streets till day- 
light, as the doors of every house, as well 
as those of the inns, were kept shut during 
certain hours of the night. 

I went the same day to the house of the 
commendator Ruffo, minister plenipoten^ 
tiary of the king of the Two Sicilies to the 
court of Vienna, in order to acquaint him 
with our flight. This enlightened and acr 
complished gentleman, after listening |a 



191 

the narrative of all our vicissitudes, man- 
ifested his Jjatisfaction at what I had per- 
formed ; and with the sincerest marks of 
esteem, promised me that he would com- 
municate the same both to the court of 
Naples and to my family. He advised me 
at the same time to depart from Vienna as 
soon as possible ; but I was obliged to re- 
main for the whole of the following day^ 
as 1 had several affiiirs to arrange. 

o 

The British minister at Vienna had oran- 

o 

ted a passport to Mrs. Smith's children the 
day before our arrival. I wished to see 
again those places, and those friends, that 
I had been familiar with during my former 
stay in that metropolis for the space of 
fDur months ; and as V/as natural^ this de- 
sire increased in proportion to the oppo- 
sition which the orders of government oc- 
casioned. Towards evening, however, I 
went to the Prater, and its appearance 
recalled to my mind the spectacle which it 
usually affords in fine weather, when peo- 
ple of all ranks are assembled there to en- 
joy the delightful shades of the forest. 



V§2 

Tfie natural grandeur ojf the trees is not 
at ail effaced by the vast numbers of 
coffee-houses, eating-houses, orchestras, 
games, and amusements of every sort, 
that are in perpetual exhibition to a merry 
people ; there are other places of resort 
for the hypochondriack and melancholy, 
far from the multitude* I recollected the 
immense consumption I had witnessed- 
there of beer and meat, which the inhab- 
itants take at all hours ; as well as the 
other resources of this beautiful spot, for 
it is here that a stranger may very soon 
discover the character and manners of the 
people of Vienna. 

On returnins: from the Prater I went to 
other places where it w^as not likely that I 
should be known, and next day before our 
departure, I visited the mausoleum of the 
arch-duchess Christina, by Canova. It 
is like all that sculptor's works, in imita- 
tion of the best relicks of Greece and 
Rome, and might undoubtedly bear a com- 
parison with them, if this great artist 
Were to produce each year fewer statues, 



193 

or to shew more attention to unity of char- 
acter and form. Ail that is wanting- in the 
productions of this sublime master is, the 
poco di piu^ or hair's-breadth more or less, 
a requisite peculiarly essential to the high- 
er class of sculpture. 

In the evening the Countess and I left 
Vienna, on the way to Prague. I had to 
travel in a country to which I was a stran- 
ger, having never been beyond Vienna on 
that side ; but as I was obliged to hasten 
my journey, I was prevented from making 
those observations on Moravia and Bohe- 
mia which I wished, previous to my ar- 
rival at Prague. The lands in general ap-. 
peared fertile, and the country throughout 
extremely uneven. In every village and 
town, images of saints and the Virgin or- 
namented the squares or publick places, 
and the people of Germany appeared to 
me so very superstitious, that I imagined 
they would fight better for the conquest of 
Jerusalem than for the protection of their 
country. The women in those provinces 
were, employ ed in the fields more than the 

R 



194 

men, the exertions of the latter seldom 
extendmg beyond horse -driving, or wield- 
ing the musket. 

Bohemia seemed richer than any other 
part of the Emperour's dominions ; but 
the character of its inhabitants is rough 
and uncivil* Their language, a corrupted 
Illirick, prevents the passenger from gain- 
ing information, and besides this, their 
extreme avarice renders them unsocial* 
I was struck with the difference of temper 
between the youth at the age of twelve or 
fourteen years, and that of the man of 
twenty-four: the first were lively and quick^ 
but the other looked stupid, lazy, and as 
if the faculties of the mind sunk under the 
increasing vigour of the body. This I at- 
tributed in some degree to the great con- 
sumption of spiritous liquors and animal 
food, which at that age prevails in Bohe- 
mia. I have seen some of the people eat 
abundantly five times in a day* The Bo-* 
hemians are brave and loyal subjects, qual- 
ities particularly commendable in the in«» 
habitants of the frontiers of any state. 



195 

In three days we reached Prague and 
as I had the direction for iindiag the house 
which Mrs. Smith was to iahcibu, i hasten^ 
ed towards it, but alter huvnig made eve* 
Ty enquiry, 1 was uiiabie to uiscover that 
she had yet arrived. I w^as hkewise at a 
loss with regard to the ciiiidren and the tu* 
tor, and went in search of them to the 
pohce office. They had come two days 
before us, and the director of the poUce 
had informed Elmaurer, that Mrs. Smith 
had not appeared. This delay began tQ 
excite my suspicion regarding her free- 
dom : however, the next day we received 
intelligence that she had arrived in the 
forenoon; but that being obliged to ob^ 
serve the character of i?icognito, she was 
not allowed to see any person before night. 
This meeting was truly interesting — the 
transports of joy on every side, when the 
children and the Countess liew to Mrs, 
Smith's arms, formed a most affecting 
scene. The children, on going up stairs, 
cried out to their mamma : their voices 
reached her ; she sprung toward them, 
md caught them, in her embrace, covering 



196 

their lovely faces with her tears and kis-« 
ses, the tender effusions of her maternal 
love ! They returned her caresses with 
charming simplicity, exclaiming " We 
are free." The Countess, unable to utter 
a syllable, embraced her sister. Every 
mark of affection and delight was rccipro- 
Gaily bestowed, and the blessings of feli- 
eity seemed at length to have reached us„ 
We were each anxious to relate our ad- 
ventures (as is naturally the case when 
friends meet) ; but such was the pleasure 
at seeing one another, that every thing else 
was neglected at the time, the idea of the 
freedom that had united the children, 
mother, and sister, occupying the mind 
alone. Nothing further seemed requisite 
to render them happy ; impending evils no 
longer obstructed the effusions of joy ; 
but the cautious government could not al- 
low the mother and children to remain 
united before their arrival at the confines 
of Russian Poland. 1 was ordered to de, 
part with the boys for Cracovia, and the 
Countess was permitted to remain with her 
sister. 



197 

I was then obliged to adopt again a name 
and character, that did not belong to me, 
agreeably to the passport given me by the 
police of Prague, which described me as 
Signior Vitelli, a banker from Triest, a 
father of a family. Thus from a footman, 
an unknown fugitive, and a suspected 
prisoner, I was metamorphosed into a 
wealthy traveller ; as generous as could be 
expected in a banker ; as profound in com- 
merce as a native of Trieste might be sup- 
posed ; sufficiently inquisitive and learned 
for a calculator of profit and loss ; and 
strictly observant of the laws, like most 
of those engaged in trade. This change, 
however, induced me to part with the 
horse and chaise, notwithstanding my un- 
willingness, from reflecting that I should 
most likely never again see this poor ani- 
mal that had saved us by indefatigably 
making his way through passes which per- 
haps no other of his kind had ever dared 
to attempt ; and had defied the steepest 
roads of the mountain, and measured the 
most extensive plains with a vigorous face. 
On him our best hopes had been placed, at 

R 2 



198 

the time perhaps of our greatest danger 
during our flight. I then experienced that 
grateful sentiment which men often owe to 
the inferiour animals : the idea, however, 
that he would not again have to perform 
such long jaunts, and undergo so much 
painful fatigue ; nor very probably have to 
feel the stripes of the lash, (which by the 
bye had been rather severely inflicted by 
me, from the exigencies of our affairs^ 
since his first entering our service) ; these 
considerations reconciled me in some de- 
gree, and I wished him an easy and long 
life. 

The next day, accompanied by the chil- 
dren, I left Prague, but w^ith regret, as I 
was unable to observe sufHciently the cu- 
riosities of this capital of Bohemia, the 
delightful and noble position of w^hich de- 
serves the attention of every stranger ; 
nor was it in m}^ j:ower to make any en- 
quiry respecting the erudition of the peo- 
ple, w^ho seemed more perspicacious and 
indu!i?trious than those of any of the other 
countries of Germany I had passed through. 



199 

A proof of this was afforded by the high 
price of every article of necessity, and par- 
ticularly of luxury ; not, however, arising 
from" scarcity, but from the Nourishing 
/state of internal commerce and the vast 
consumption. The resources of Bohemia 
proceed more from manufactures than from 
a prolifick soil ; nor could I discover in 
the people a propensity for agriculture, as, 
they were generally engaged in the works 
of art. 

The memory of that great monarch Jo- 
seph II. is highly venerated throughout 
the country ; he having granted to such 
of the inhabitants as were engaged in the 
cultivation of the earth, a participation of 
the common rights of humanity, of which 
they had been long deprived, by the most 
cruel personal servitude. 

The route from Prague to Olmutz is 
perhaps the worst in the space between. 
Bohemia and Moravia ; wretched inns, bad 
and steep roads, and lands barren through 
neglect, render the journey wearisome. 



200 

Before I arrived in Gallicia I passed 
through Silesia. I mention this merely 
because it was then only that I perceived 
for the first time that I had gone from one 
country to another without being sensible 
of the transition ; for throughout Germa^ 
ny, the coins, customs, dialects, and .other 
peculiarities, are extremely various, and 
strike the traveller as he enters every pro- 
vince. 

On coming to Cracow, its appearance 
siifficiently proved it to have been former- 
ly the seat of commotion and civil war ; 
its poverty and inactive state were evident, 
and seemed as if none of its inhabitants 
considered it their home. In fact the no- 
bles had all emigrated to the neighbouring 
countries, particularly Vienna ; those oc- 
cupied in the government were Germans, 
the artificers either Italians or Bohemians ; 
and the rest of its population were mostly 
Jews, who have no country of their own, 
nor ever partake in the publick concerns 
of any people am^ong whom they reside. 
Yet they carry on exclusively all the trade 



201 

and support in a manner the political ex* 
istence of this city, being at once the 
merchants, manufacturers, and agricultu- 
rists. The departure of the nobles and 
rich proprietors from Cracow, has left the 
Jews, by the means of their money, mas^ 
ters of a wretched people. 

Soon after my arrival, the director of the 
police came to acquaint me that I must be 
cautious in not allowing my real name to 
be discovered, or that of the children ; 
and besides, that on Mrs. Smith's coming, 
neither wc nor any other persons could re^ 
ceive information of that circumstance till 
just before her departure for Russian Po- 
land ; but that in order that she might see 
her children, he would direct me to a wood 
at some distance from the city, where I 
was to wait with them in a remote part for 
Mrs. Smith, who should come there pri. _ 
vately with her sister a few hours before 
her quitting Cracow. This induced n e 
to suspect that there were French spies in 
this city, and that the government had some 
Ctiiise for suqIi precaution ; I coubequently 



202 

endeavoured to keep the children as much 
Gonceaied as pobsibie. Two days only 
had elapsed when the director informed me 
of the spot to which I was to conduct 
them for the intended meeting. Towards 
evening I accordingly led them on till I 
found we were among the oaks, in the sol- 
itary place appointed. In vain did the in- 
fants search for their mother ; their loud 
and repeated cries of " Mamma^^ were of 
no avail ; for no step w^as to be heard, nor 
a signal of any kind perceived. She stood 
waiting for us however in company with 
the Countess Strazzoldo and the preceptor 
of the children, on a hill close at hand, 
and near the ruins of an ancient castle, 
once the seat of the Piasti family ; but 
when the voice of her darling Sidney 
reached her, she also raised her's ; and 
joyful sounds of tenderness quickly re- 
echoed through the gloom of the forest* 
During this interview the hours passed 
rapidly ; but the intense darkness of the 
nieht made us reflect that it was time to ae- 
parate, with the promise however, that they 
were to meet the chudren again in Bresk, 



205 

The next day, before I left Cracow I 
wished to see the famous salt-mines of 
Wilitzeii. Tied to a rope, I descended 
into a deep chasm formed in the earth,=^ 
accompanied by a man with torches, who 
w^as to guide me through its dreary hor- 
rours. 

Sola snb nocte per iimbram ; 
Perque doaios Ditis vacuas, et inania regna. 

From time to time I stopped to behold 
the confui^ed and tottering masses around 
me, while this tenifick abyss was seen 
vaulted above in hideous contexture, which 
seemed to threaten Avith destruction the 
eye that dared to gaze upon it. I contin- 
ued to descend till I reached the bottom ; 
where, by means of our lights, I perceiv- 
ed a body of water, on which floated a 
small ill-constructed boat, destined to con- 
vey whoever wished to penetrate still far- 
ther into the dark recesses. Having final- 
ly, by narrow passages, arrived at the bot- 
tom of these immense excavations, the 
man that accompanied me gave orders to 
others who had come with us, to detach a 



204 

mass of salt from the rocks^ that I might 
see the process and expedition of theif 
operations. A thundering crash attended 
the shock, and resounded awfully through- 
out the hollow expanse ; my senses were 
forcibly struck at the bellowing noise. I 
passed three hours in examining these 
places, which my fancy depicted as the 
seat of Chaos ; not considering them as 
the result of men's thirst after gain, by 
wiiich Nature herself seemed violated and 
disfigured, and her very bowels torn open^ 
My conductor, being now obliged to re- 
turn, asked whether I was afraid to climb 
up a rock there by means of pieces of 
wood for the purpose of arriving the soon- 
er at the spot where I was again to be 
bound to the rope by which I had first de-^ 
scended. Though much fatigued, I wil- 
lingly undertook this new^ road. On reach- 
ing the top of the cliif (which was no very 
agreeable task), and casting miy eyes on 
the space beneath, I was astonished at the 
awful prospect, where a gaping abyss of 
the blackest darkness seemed ready to 
snatch me into eternal oblivion. I hasten- 



^05 

od from the dreadful aperture, pursuing 
my ascent with all the expedition of some 
unfortunate being who flies from a dun- 
geon into which tyranny had plunged him. 
I thouscht I heard a human voice behind 
me, and that I perceived the shade of some 
departed soul ; but these illusions occa- 
sioned by the dismal objects that sur- 
rounded me, were dissipated when, by the 
assistance of the rope, I was again hoisted 
to the light of day. 

Cracow owes the principal source of its 
trafick to these mines. Above a thousand 
persons are employed in working them, 
and the produce is estimated at about two 
millions of florins annually. On returning 
to the city, I was obliged to depart imme- 
diately with Mrs. Smith's children for 
Bresk, a place situated on the frontier of 
Polish Russia. 

The contrast between the fertile quality 
of the soil, and its barrenness, arising 
from a want of cultivation, was a melan- 
choly proof of the wretchedness of those 



206 

countries. It was a distressing sight to 
perceive immense tracts of the finest land 
quite deserted ; countries capable of be- 
coming agreeable to the traveller, render- 
ed insupportable to him and painful, by be*, 
ing destitute of even the necessaries of 
life. Often was I obliged to entreat the 
avaricious and ragged Jew for a night's re- 
pose in a miserable hovel, and pay for it 
at an exorbitant rate* I was as frequently 
under the necessity of waiting for post- 
horses in the open country, which seldom 
arrived till I had more than once repeated 
my solicitations to the people, Vv^ho spoke 
a sort of Illirick dialect, mixed with a few 
words of Latin. 

We continued the whole day to hasten 
across those extensive and dreary plains^ 
seldom finding any mark of population. 
The distant village is composed of small 
wooden huts, inhabited by the sordid 
Israelites exclusively ; who, notwithstand- 
ing- the inviting: surface of the soil round 
them, are never eno"apred in agricultural 
pursuits* How then is it that the eman- 



^07 



(^ 



cipation conferred by the magnanimous 
Joseph II. should not have contributed to 
the prosperity of the country, and the in- 
crease of its population ? Is it credible 
that tlie emperour has found it expedient 
to establish a line of troops along the fron- 
tier for the purpose of retaining in their 
own country the Poles, who, tired of free- 
dom, emigrated in quest of a master to 
buy them ? Do these habits of slavery 
become agreeable to mankind ? 

I was approaching the frontiers of Po- 
lish Russia in the agreeable expectation 
that at last I should once more be able to^ 
appear imre strained and free in every place, 
iivow my name, and travel conveniently 
wherever I chose. 

Mrs. Smith, since her departure from 
Lintz, had assumed the name and char- 
acter of Mrs. Teresa Miller, wife of a 
Russian colonel ; under which description 
she easily entered Rresk, the first place in 
Russian Poland. I arrived tvv^o days after 
her, under the character of Vitelli, a 



:208 

:3ner chant of Trieste ; but as my passport- 
had not been confirmed by the Russian 
minister at Vienna, I was arrested at the 
bridge forming the barrier, and obliged to 
return to Terespol ; the last village in Po- 
lish Germany, and a very short distance 
from Bresk. A Jewish family there fa- 
voured me and the children with an asy- 
lum in their stable, whence I sent Mrs. 
Smith information of our accident, as I 
was quite at a loss how to act. 

An extraordinary occurrence was des- 
tined to finish this mode of travelling un- 
der feigned names, and close the scene of 
our flight. Prince Wolkonsky was com^ 
mander of the troops at Bresk and its en- 
virons. This amiable gentleman had re- 
sided a long time at Constantinople, where 
he had been particularly intimate with ba- 
ron Herbert, Mrs. Smith's father ; and 
knev/ that lady, as well as the rest of her 
family. 

On the arrival of the supposed Mrs. 
-MZ/tT at Bresk, the prince was informed 



209 

of it ; but as there was no colonel of that 
iiame in the Russian service, he immedi- 
ately suspected her ; and let her know that 
he wished to be informed who she really 
was, and the place of her husband's resi- 
dence, since he was ignorant of there be- 
ing any such officer. Mrs. Smith, though 
still averse to reveal her name, from the 
repeated experience of unfortunate events, 
sent Elmaurer to the prince, with direct- 
ions to communicate the truth if he should 
think it necessary. The prince, after a 
very few words, obliged him to declare 
the whole ; but the pleasure of Elmaurer 
was e^vtreme, on perceiving that when he 
mentioned the name of Herbert, the prince 
hastened to visit Mrs. Smith, and receive 
from herself an account of her adventures. 
He was amazed on hearing that Mrs. 
Smith whom he had left at Constantinople, 
was now a fugitive from Italy and Gei nia- 
nv, and had come to the frontiers of Rus- 
sia for security. This prince, after liblen- 
ing with astonishment to the narritive of 
her enterprise and hardships, expresbcd 

s2 



210 

his desire of being useful to lier, in consid- 
eration of bis. friendship for her family. 

He very liberally gave orders that I 
^should be permitted to enter Bresk, and 
the follovv^ing day I had the satisfaction of 
being introduced to him. It was not in 
his pov/er however to permit any of us to 
depart, till our Russian passports should 
arrive from Grodno ; which rendered ^ 
stay of several days necessary. 

This place made me imagine myself in 
an ancient city of the land of Israel. Three 
thousand Jews composed almost its whole 
population, and a few Russians administer 
justice, and occupy the civil employments* 
Whoever knows the character of the Jews,, 
will easily conceive what monopoly pre- 
vails in this unhappy country, where the 
Iaw is wholly under pecuniary influence, 
W^here povvxr is purchased, and the magis- 
trates and keepers of the customs follow 
|io other rule in granting or denying what- 
ever is required of them, than a conside* 
ration of the presents, made to them. The 



211 

Jews, however J are necessary to the sup- 
port of the country, considering its actual 
state ; and one day when the governour 
informed me that their banishment was in 
contemplation, I asked who then w^ere to 
be the inhabitants of that part of Poland, 
the labourers, the manufacturers, the 
tradesmen, and in short, who were to com- 
pose the people ? adding, that without the 
introduction of new inhabitants, the whole 
country would become a complete desert. 
He agreed that trade and society itself, 
arose here from the Jews exclusively. 

These people, solely occupied in the 
means of obtaining money, will never at- 
tempt any thing of importance in favour 
of those whose thirst for conquest might 
lead them to undertake the revolution of 
Poland, and whose reliance might be pla- 
ced on the Jews. Timid and base from 
their condition and habits^ they will never 
either take up arms against any govern- 
ment, or oppose its measures. In Bresk 
I fancied the houses alone had endured 



212 

the effects of levelling democracy ; for they 
were all constructed of wood and exactly 
similar, particularly in elevation, nor did 
I perceive that the dwellings of the rich 
were more splendid than those of the poor. 
The nobility, and the marshal (the an- 
cient title of the chief nobleman in every 
city of Poland) of the place, lived in the 
adjacent country. 

Prince Wolkonsky sent about to inform 
the principal people near Bresk of our ar- 
rival, for the purpose of procuring us the 
pleasure of their company. With what 
politeness and attention were we treated by 
the Polish gentry, from the instant they 
heard of our being there : they wished us 
to enjoy that hospitality of which our sit- 
uation had so long deprived us in every 
other place, and as they understood that 
this was the iirst city where we had found 
ourselves in safety, they resolved to show 
us how well they knew how to receive the 
fugitive, and make us forget our recent 
troubles. 



21 



r> 



The Countess Megeasca^ was the first 
to afford us the pleasures of society by- 
inviting us to pass several hours of the day 
at her country-house, situated in the mid- 
dle of a thick forest. Our conversation 
had hitherto been confined to dialogues 
with supercilious police-agents, rough sol- 
diers, and tippling postilions. 

I perceived that the house of the Coun- 
tess abounded with all the comforts requi- 
site for the enjoyment of life, and thai the 
land round it was fertile and well cultiva'- 
ted ; a hundred servants swelled her es- 
tablishment, as is the case with most of 
the ancient families of Poland. I found 
an old French abbe (a necessary appendage 
to every large family there), a secretary- 
fit for all occupations, the speaker (who is 
the reporter of the news), and a young 
man who seemed to be a husband-elect. 
Next were the daughters, who of course 
could sing, and consequently speak Italian ; 
the Countess who was to pronounce on 

* This name is written in the Italian manner, as 
I am unacqiudnted with Polish orthography, 



214 

politicks, and the superannuated Count, 
naturally subject to continued attacks of 
illness. There were besides the sprightly 
young lady oversowing with repartee, and 
the restless lordlings du bel air. 

The history of Poland was almost con- 
stantly the theni€ of conversation in this 
company ; and the degrees of civilization 
of the Russians who governed th€ country, 
seemed to form the utmost extent of their 
erudition ; but when the prince Wolkon,- 
sky honoured the assembly with his pre- 
sence, as he was a Russian general, these 
topicks were dropped, and musick alone 
engaged their whole attention. 

They vied with each other m their po- 
liteness toward us. The juvenile nobility 
treated us with a grand ball, and appeared 
amply satisfied when we expressed our 
sentiments of gratitude for so much kind- 
ness : they all addressed us very politely 
though we were strangers, which is seldom 
the case in a certain capital, where it is 
considered almost a crime to be a stran* 



215 

ger, and where a ticket of invitation is re- 
quisite before such a one is admitted to 
visit any person, a way somewhat similar 
to that used in visiting objects of curiosity. 

I contracted an acquaintance with Mar- 
shal K , one of the most ancient no- 
bles of the place. He resided in the coun- 
try at a short distance, and spent many 
hours of the day in a delightful garden, 
where I perceived verses of Segur cut in 
the bark of several trees, and other sen- 
tences of his servant ; who, the marshal 
told me, was his rival in political reason- 
ing, and in opinions on war and peace, or 
on the strength or decline of nations: 
*' This servant,'' said he '' was the first 
who predicted all the dreadful consequen- 
ces of Bonaparte's elevation to power, 
and I think him one of the first politicians 
in Poland." 

This gentleman had been an impetuous 
orator in the diet, and one of the most 
strenuous supporters of the rights of the 
nobility ; as such, after the subversion of 



m6 

lli€ constitution under wliich lie had livedo 

BO further consolation remained to him 

than that of contemplating the vicissitudes, 

and listening to the news of other nations* 

He introduced me to a friend of his, with 

whom he had once formed the project of 

putting into practice all the principles of 

Rousseau's social contract. I took the 

liberty of remarking, that they would have 

acted better by increasing the stability of 

the throne, and fixing an hereditary mon*- 

archy, thus putting an end to all the party- 

dissention which distracts Poland, and 

leaves it a prey to other nations. Woful 

experience had fully convinced him of the 

truth of this, and he seemed of opinion 

that the monarchy should not be elective, 

and that the nobles, instead of being so 

much concerned in establishing their own 

power, ought to contribute to that of the 

sovereign by an adequate military force. 

This the nature of the soil would greatly 

facilitate, particularly in point of cavalry, 

for the plains are very extensive. In 

short, he thought that they < should have 

constituted in Poland a firm, instead of a 



• 117 

fluctuating and revolutionary systera ; they 
tvould then have prevented the aggrandise* 
ment of Prussia, and perhaps repelled the 
measures adopted by the other two pow- 
ers who availed themselves of the vices 
inherent to the Polish constitution. 

The position of Poland, no doubt, ren- 
dered its defence and preservation extreme a. 
]y difficult, surrounded as it is by the most 
powerful nations of Europe ; but this in- 
convenience might probably have been 
averted, were the monarch to take that 
lively interest in the safety of his kingdom, 
which the former state of things in a 
measure precluded ; or were the people, 
by enjoying the privileges of freedom, 
stimulated to the defence of their homes 
and property. 

The marshal observed^ *' Poland has 
been offered to sale by every one." I re- 
plied, " of course it belonged to nobody." 
*' Corruption and venality," said he, ^* per- 
vade each class, nor have the nobles blush- 
ed to subsist on the donations of Catharine 



2ia 

and Josepli II." ^* Thus the nobility,'^ 
continued I, possess more power than the 
monarch*" The marshal appeared to me 
perfectly recovered from his thoughtless 
propensity toward the rights of the diet^ 
and told me that he had determined on 
living retired in the cultivation only of 
philosophy, a science often entered upon 
too late, and frequently even then merely 
to counterpoise the irksome recollection of 
past errours* 

Eight days elapsed wathout the pass* 
ports from Grodno appearing^ but we 
could not leave Bresk without them. I 
endeavoured in the mean time to gain in- 
formation relative to the opinion of the 
few native inhabitants who were not Jewsi* 

* The Jews have no fixed political opinion ; nor 
from their condition cpn they be expected to t^.ke any 
interest in the fute of governments, destitute as 
thev are of coiintiy or home. To every n tion that 
tc:srutes them tbf:y are equally indifferent. No 
people have retained their primitive character lA 
greater purity. The French and Italian Jew resem^ 
bles thiOse of Germany and Poland, and the Asiftick 
h stmilar to the African Jew. In "whatever clime> 



. 219 

I was unable to discover any national char- 
acter. Two classes only were to be found ; 
one of the nobles extremely rich, the 
other of wretched slaves. The latter are 
so little susceptible of patriotick senti- 
ments, that they are even ignorant of 
what the word government means ; to obey 
the commands of their superiours, is all 
they aim at. Among the nobles, one 
seemed partial to Austria, another to Prus- 
sia, and a third to Russia ; but hardly any 
to France. The Count Mageasca said, in 
the senatorial emphasis of an ancient Ro- 
man, ** Of the Poles, the name only sur- 
vives, we are no longer a nation." I an- 
swered, ** You were in a state of perpet- 
ual discord, which is not the case now that 
you belong to a government." It was not 
possible how^ever to persuade either him or 
any other Pole that such was the truth, 
while the prince Wolkonsky governed and 
other Russian generals commanded them. 

under all circumstances, they never relax in their 
pursuit of gain : they are not only of an uncUminish- 
ing avidity, but (v>'^hat is more rem.arkable) bear still 
every where those same Hebraick features which we 
perceive in the monuments of antiquity. 



'^20 

In society, the Polish ladies and the mti% 
also pointed at the uncouth behaviour of 
the Russians, and complained of being 
under the yoke of such a rude and unciv-. 
ihzed people. The condition however of 
-the nobles is generally respected by the 
e^mperour, and the language, as well a§ 
the national prejudices seemed to resem-* 
ble those of the Russians. 

It was at Bresk in general DimidofF's 
house, that I first heard the chorus of Rus- 
sian soldiers. I listened with amazement 
to this perfect union of harmony, which 
might very justly have been taken for the 
production of consumm.,ate skill in mu- 
sick. It consisted of a continuation of 
melodious passages, in a sort of inverse 
modulation of the different voices ; the 
dissonances by which they apparently com-, 
inenced, were resolved by the profoundest 
art. I thought I might compare it to the 
,melody of ancient Greece, mxntioned by 
Anacharsisand Polixenes ; and I was con-, 
vinced, that were the climate of bqth 



121 

equally mild, the Russians would eclipse 
the Italians in musick. 

The Poles have also a taste for singing, 
which is generally of the sentimental kind. 
Their canzones always express the sorrows 
of unhappy lovers ; thus differing from 
those of the Germans, who prefer the 
martial notes of a soldier, or the ungrate- 
ful shrieks of a fiend ; or the Italians, who 
choose warbling heroes and gods ; and of 
the French, who admire the plaintive sohg 
of innocence, or the obstreperous bawlings 
of low life. Pastorals please the Rus- 
sians. 

Education is in general highly refined 
in Poland, nor is the cordial reception of- 
fered to the stranger, one of the least con- 
vincing proofs of the truth of this as^ 
sertion. 

After a stay of seventeen days at Bresk- 
we departed ; and it was then that the 
children for the first time were permitted 
to travel with their mother, a satisfaction 

T 2 



which they continued to enjoy till we 
reached London. I was obliged to per- 
form the same journey, finding myself de- 
prived of any place of security, except 
England or Russia. As my intention was 
to go to Sicil}', no way was open to me 
but the Baltick and the ocean. I was far 
from my relatives, nor was it in my pow- 
er to inform them of my situation ; but 
though I left them, was it not for the pur- 
pose of liberating an unhappy captive and 
two infants from unmerited imprisonment ? 
Italy and Germany were shut against me, 
as I had reason to apprehend the most se- 
rious punishment if I were to return ta 
either. My fate, however, far from 
seeming cruel, coincided perfectly with 
iny inclination. Nor did necessity ever 
appear so congenial to me as on this oc- 
casionc 

Being compelled to travel through coun« 
tries, entirely ncAV to me, I observed at- 
tentively the manners and customs of the 
Poles, who at present have almost lost 
tK? jr ancient habits^ as their national splen* 



223 

dour IS decayed, and their country subju- 
gated by the neighbouring powers. One 
of these is advancing fast to civilization, 
and seems emulous to deserve the rank of 
a polished nation. To obtain this end, its 
people imitate the manners of the French, 
and resort to theatres where French pieces 
are acted ; the Italian manners and mu- 
sick are likewise followed ; and the mari- 
time skill and method of carrying on trade 
of the English are cultivated : yet the na-. 
tional character still remains. 

As I have observed, I was under the ne- 
cessity of coming to England, a pleasing 
duty to me, as it fulfilled those wishes 
which I had alwavs entertained, of visi- 
ting a powerful and victorious country, 
and beholding the prodigious effects of 
commercial industry, by which the pro- 
ductions of a hundred climates are inter- 
changed, and rendered familiar to all its 
inhabitants. 

In this hope I left Bresk, on my way 
tlvQugh the rest of Poland to Petersburgh^^ 



224 

whence I intended to embark for London. 
My desire to gain all the information pos- 
sible, led me to make the strictest inqui- 
ries ; but, unluckily, the whole country 
that I traversed offered no more than a con- 
tinued scene of misery. For whole days 
did I pursue my way without seeing any 
human being, though the soil was rich in 
pasture and trees. No mark of industry 
or cultivation could I perceive ; and at the 
wretched and distant villages, almost eve- 
ry house appeared to be deserted. From 
time to time however, the lofty mansions 
towered to the sight from within the spa- 
cious and delightful forest : there the Po- 
lish nobles reside, to whom belong the 
dreary and wide-extended plains which I 
had passed the whole day in crossing. A 
rich Jew, in the spring, engages for the 
year, an immense tract of land, for the 
sole purpose of feeding cattle, and provi- 
ding hay ; and expects from it no other 
benefits than these, there being no haiids 
to be found for cultivating the ground. 
The lower class, who are slaves, are obli- 
ged to serve their master, unless they are 



,225, 

rich enough to purchase their emancipa- 
tion for a few months or years. It is 
needless to observe, that while things con- 
tinue in this state, the country must ever 
remain destitute of population. Nature 
herself shrinks at such a dreadful anti- 
social system. Can men, thus oppressed, 
look forward to their offspring without feel- 
ing the pangs of remorse ? and must they 
not rather curse the connubial bond that 
gives existence to beings doomed to chains 
and poverty ? Accordingly, what in fact is 
the population covering an extent of 13,400 
square miles ? Hardly seven millions of 
souls, of which three millions are Jews. 

The soil of the parts of Poland which 
I saw, appeared equal in quality to that of 
the richest countries in Europe. Its neg- 
lected state, no doubt, arises from the se- 
rious wars in which the powers it belongs 
to are so deeply engaged, being thus pre- 
vented, of course, from directing their 
attention to the amelioration of a country, 
of all the north of Europe the most sus? 
ceptible of cultivation. 



226 

However disagreeable the sight of s6 
many sordid Jews was to me in Poland, I 
could have wished to meet them every 
Avhere. Without these fallen Israelites, the 
stranger in Lithuania would find it impos- 
sible to travel or even exist ; it seemed as 
if the government itself, the lands, pro- 
ductions, houses, all, in short, were in their 
possession : without recurring to them> 
neither food nor horses are to be found* 
There is no fixed price for the horses, this 
depends on the will of the Jew ; if the 
traveller thinks it exorbitant, or threatens 
to enforce justice, the jew smiles with 
©ontempt. 

After a journey of several days, I arri- 
ved at Wilna ; where, on making inquiry 
for the ladies and children, I was told that 
Mrs, Smith laboured under a severe illness 
which threatened her life. Terrour and 
fatigue, in addition to her former impair- 
ed state of health, had reduced this lady 
to the vers:e of dissolution. Almost eve- 
ry hope was lost ; the children were kept 
from her ; and her sister, in the deepest 



22 T 

afiliction, was unable to assist or even to 
look on her : She who had escaped from 
the grasp of bondage, lay supine at the 
mercy of all powerful Providence, and 
W'as unable any further to resist the laws 
of nature. 

They sent in quest of Doctor Frank, 
but this celebrated physician had gone to 
Petersburgh : Mrs. Smith was therefore 
confided to the care of Dr. LobenweiL 
This learned professor of the university of 
Wilna, in the course of a few days, suc- 
ceeded in relieving her from the immedi- 
ate diinger of death ; and through his un- 
remitting attention and skill, in about a 
month she was restored to a tolerable con- 
dition. 

As the month of August was exniring 
and any further delay might render the 
passage of the Baltick difficult, I determin- 
ed on accompanying the ladies to Riga, 
there to embark for England, and gave up 
the idea of visitin": St. Petersbur^rh. 



Most of the gentry of Wilna being then . 
in the country, and the university vacant, 
I was unable to obtain much information 
relating to the manners of this capital of 
Lithuania. From the discourse in the few 
circles there, however, I could find that 
both the people and nobles were satisfied 
with the Russian government ; which has 
respected, not only the dignity and rights 
of the Polish nobility, but also the na- 
tional customs ; and has endeavoured be- 
sides to encourage agriculture and render 
the condition of the lower class less in- 
supportable. But abuse and fraud still 
continue, and are perhaps even greater 
than ever : the ancient government of Po- 
land w^as certainly by no means calculated 
to extirpate these evils. 

I perceived too that what I heard in 
these respects was true. This city was 
governed by Russian generalsj who were 
highly esteemed : the nobles considered 
themselves fortunate in being allowed to 
retain their privileges ; and the people, 
who were more active than those in any 



229 

othef part of Poland, cherished the pros- 
pect which would enable them to purchase 
their libert}^ for a few years. Though this 
administration can conduce but little to 
relieve Poland from the pressure of a rigid 
feudality it no doubt reconciles the Poles 
to their recent master. 

Of all Poland, the Prussian part is the 
most dissatisfied with its fate, notwith- 
standing the attention of the king to amelio- 
rating the condition of his new subjects. 
He has established useful institutions, and 
abolished many abuses j but the Poles 
wish for their ancient privileges, and ut- 
terly detest these innovations. 

The nobles are incensed against the king 
of Prussia for laying pecuniary imposi- 
tions upon them, and the ciergy consider 
him as a heretick. Hence it is not sur- 
prising that we find many of the Poles act- 
ing in favour of his enemy. The Prus- 
sian monarch required the exertion of all 
his wisdom to suppress the turbulent spir- 
it of this people, even though he had tri^^ 

IT 



ed to fender tlieir condition more eas/*- 
I do not think that the Lithuanians and 
Gallicians will ever be seen seconding the 
ambitious views of France, or favouring 
by secret schemes the conquest of their 
countries. As the affluence of the nobles 
depends upon the preservation of the feu- 
dal system, it is impossible that they should 
ever consent to be governed by the laws 
of Bonaparte, which subvert every anti- 
quated institution of the kind. The Po- 
lish gentry will of course oppose the French 
violently.* 

I could not help inquiring after the hus- 
bands of some of the ladies at Wilna i 
and was answered, that they generally 

* The French might have spared themselves the 
trouble of honouring the Jews with their sanhedrim 
of Paris : Circumcision itself would not induce 
them to perform any thing important in favour of 
France. The Jews, as I have already observed, are 
selfish and timid, and incapable of acting vigorously 
on any occasion. Have they been ever known, in 
the wars of Poland, or in those of the rest of Eu- 
rope, to have taken any side with energy or co\if^ 
;rage ? 



23 i 

lived at their estates, or in other cities. 
It was natural to infer, that the sole ob- 
ject of matrimony was merely that of 
preserving the inheritance in the family. 
When once the heir is born, the husbanfl 
and wife live separate ; and to render this 
perfectly unobjectionable, the lady is al- 
lowed the exclusive enjoyment of all her 
property. This convention is so strictly 
adhered to, that at the house of a Coun- 
tess, where I had frequently dined, the 
husband, on coming occasionally, actually 
paid for his board and lodging there, 

After leaving Wilna, the country bears 
a very different aspect. Corn and other 
productions in great abundance, afforded 
me the most agreeable prospect as I has^ 
tened along. ♦ An active trade appeared to 
be carried on throughout these parts, and 
as the land seemed less fertile, the villa- 
ges were more numerous and well peo- 
pled. Most of the inhabitants convey the 
produce of their labour to the ports of 
Memel, Koningsberg, Riga, &:e. and for 



202 

that purpose the rivers are seen covered 
with boats. 

Having arrived in Courland, and when 
^bout a post distant from Mittau, 1 was 
obliged to wait two days in a wretched 
hut, as it was impossible to obtain horses -, 
thus I found both men and beasts were 
equally scarce. To a Sicilian, like me, 
quite new to perceive the corn still green 
toward the end of August ; this was the 
case in that part of Courland, so the har* 
vest could not be got in before the autumn 
was very far advanced. I stopped only a 
day at Mittau ; and the following evening 
entered Riga, with Mrs. Smith and the 
Countess Strazzoldo. No sight could be 
more interesting to me who had beheld 
nothing for four months but steep moun- 
tains, woods, and lonesome plains, than 
that of an immense river covered with 
hundreds of vessels and boats, where the 
people were observed busily employed in 
shipping or unloading every sort of mer- 
chandise, the cries of the active sa'i Oi s 
heard as they unfurled their saiio for de- 



235 

parture, and ships seen entering with theic 
national colours flying. This was a most 
edifying scene, after having witnessed the 
distressed condition of the lower orders 
of the Poles throughout the interiour. 
At Riga all was in motion, the inhabitants 
of every climate lived here united, inter- 
changing their several commodities, and 
the stimulus of riches seemed, through 
the medium of commerce, to give ex- 
traordinary animation to each individual. 
I had been for some time a stranger to such 
sensations as those which were impressed 
by the activity of this extensive city. 

We immediately exerted ourselves to 
procure a passage for England ; but, as 
usual, we were doomed to meet with ob- 
stacles even in this respect, and were un- 
der the necessity of protracting our stay 
no less than seventeen days, as there was 
no vessel bound for England. 

Through all Poland, and especially a^ 
Wilna, the people complained bitterly of 
the excessive duties on all foreign goodsj 

u 2 



234 

particularly English. I was told that these 
frequently amount to half of the prime cost ; 
and the injustice of the custom-house 
directors was related in the most virulent 
terms. I heard of an accusation made 
against a man of probity w^ho had attempt- 
ed to suppress these measures so subver- 
sive of prosperity and industry, and that 
every effort of the emperour to counteract 
such evils had proved unavailing. I ob- 
served, in answer, that every disorder has 
its attendant symptoms, and that to extir- 
pate all abuses, nothing could be more ef- 
fectual than entire freedom. These com- 
plaints liowever were never made at Riga, 
though the duties on every article are 
enormous there also : for the riches pro- 
duced by its extensive trade with every 
northern country, render them less bur- 
densome, so that among forty thousand in- 
habitants, no mark of poverty is to be 
seen.* 

* A proof of this is particularly remarkable in 
England ; where the treasures that flow from trade 
enable the people to support burdens which would 
©verwhelm any other country in misery. For on 



235 

At Riga (as is the case in every city in- 
habited by merchants and bankers), polit- 
ical news is speedily and faithfully receiv- 
ed. On the first report of the prepara- 
tions for hostility between France and 
Prussia, a rich English merchant gave a 
splendid entertainment. The history of 
our escape was already knovi^n to many, 
and such of the gentry as had returned 
from their country-seats, very kindly af- 
forded us repeated proofs of their hos- 
pitable attention ; besides the nobles, the 
secondary class were extremely polite. 

The Livonians do not like to be mista- 
ken for Russians, notwithstanding their 
attachment to the government. They pre- 
serve the chronological list of their pro- 
gressive advancement in civilization, which 
is anteriour by far to that of the Russians ; 
and consequently expect a certain degree 
of deference on account of their antiquity. 

'svhat further object can the English be taxed, unless 
they are to pay for the faculty of respiration ? Yet 
there is no other country in so flourishiiip; a condi- 
tion, or still possessed of such immense riches. 



236 

We at length embarked about the be- 
gmning of September, and in twelve days 
arrived at Copenhagen, v\^hence, after a 
short stay, we continued our passage to 
England, and on the 26th day of the 
same month, I for the first time beheld 
the happy shores of that powerful md: 
wealthy island* 



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